Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just to start with, yes I've searched :)

But have only found conflicting info.

As in gt3037? But it comes with the options of 3 different rear housings?

same as most Garrett units, hks, etc.

I'm shopping for a new/bigger turbo,

I have a RB30DET in a patrol wagon,

Currently makes 244hp atw, but with this nasty Chinese t04e (0.63ar rear)I'm running, it has to much back pressure and boost drops off over 6000rpm.

I'm not chasing power, just want good low down response that will flow enough for roughly 300-350hp?

My tuner said it will make more power at the same boost if the exhaust housing had less back pressure,

My setup is stock 30 block, 25de head non vct, hi-mount manifold, tial 44mm Gate, 3" mandrel exhaust all straight through except 3" metal cat.

Neo 25 injectors, stock (front facing- cut/shut) inlet, 2.5" cooler pipes, 600-300-75 fmic.

What I want to know is with what turbo, and especially what size trim and a/r rear are people's engines making boost?

As an example of what info I'm after -

RB30DET, t04e .50com .63rear, pos pressure @1850rpm, full 15psi @2600rpm .

So can people post?

Engine, turbo, rear housing size, rpm which you see boost, rpm you have full boost.

Cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446336-turbo-sizing-vs-responsespool-time/
Share on other sites

^^This is what the RB30 dyno results thread is all about.

There isn't an RB30 dyno thread. There's a 25/26-30 thread, but results there are going to be quite different to a bog stock single cam 30DET head. Sure, he can get some ideas, but it's still a fair question.

To be honest a better response would have been to point him to a VL forum. They have way more experience with RB30s than the folks here.

I've read that thread over a few times, nearly all state a model of turbo, some state the rear ar, but those are always 1.06 or somethin massive =lag monster with a sledgehammer power curve, I'm after info on boost threshold.

Pretty much exactly what kiwiRS4t gave me!

Also recommendations are welcome.

I'm using an r31 block,pistons. Originally 9.0:1 static.

R32 rb25de head, 62cc chambers.

Slightly skimmed when it was freshened up.

1.3mm head gasket.

Cylinder pressure is 150psi exactly.

So maybe 8.5:1 (ish?)

The ATR43-TX3 from hyper gear looks the part I need, rated 400-600hp.

G1 profile -400hp with .63 rear

Would this provide aggressive response and still be ok up to about 5500rpm?

Most of my driving is 1500-4500rpm

With the occasional 6900 overtaking and lights-lights drive maneuver!

It would be silly responsive on a 3l. You'll probably want the .82 rear on it. I reckon a .63 will struggle at 7k on a 3l.

Edited by Cowboy1600

The performance goals are achieveable with either the 3076 0.82 combination, or a Hypergear unit.

Begs the question of why muck around with a RB, when big cubes TB45/48 engines are made to run in the 1500-4500 bracket.

Best torque for an average 30DET should be in the 2500-6000 range, using budget gear as per the build spec notes from OP. Getting strong turbo-assisted torque below 2500 is likely to result in exactly what happened with the TO4E.

I'll throw in an unusual budget suggestion: Kinugawa TDO6H-20G 10cm.

I'll throw in an unusual budget suggestion: Kinugawa TDO6H-20G 10cm.

good idea

Though I'd look more at the TD06SL2-20G with the 9 blade rear wheel so it can still breath out at higher rpm :)

This one http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/291207219708?nav=SEARCH

The smaller exhaust wheel for faster spool

Also OP reading your post in the dyno thread I will guess from what you wrote you retarded the intake 2deg and advanced the exhaust 4 deg, this is wrong for what you want, advance intake 4 and retard exhaust 6, give that a go and report back :yes:

SL2 turbine probably should respond faster, due to less inertia

When building these 30DET you can't set cam timing from an unknown starting point. The cam timing markers don't line up to zero. Highly recommend paying the relatively small cost for an experienced builder to correctly set both cams using degree wheel and dial indicator. Then you've got a proper starting point if you wanted to play further on the dyno. Achieving low rpm gains will still come at a cost of higher rpm losses.

If bottom end grunt and instant response is the target, I wouldn't think the 30DET is the best spec. Small capacity engine in heavy truck can only do so much. These things still need to turn a few rpm to work well.

TB45/48 with a GT37 would be hard to beat, provided you could keep fuel and clutches/gearboxes up to it.

I'm certain that there would be some good info out on forums covering Patrols, Off Road racing etc.

  • Like 1

That's a good point and something I should have added, the specs I give for cam timing should always be from a corrected zero :thumbsup:

While the 4.8 patrol motor will give more from lower rpm, that is really only a benifit to rock crawlers, 4wding and off road racing use a wider rev range then the 4.8 will deliver, we race off road

post-36620-0-18520900-1407107133_thumb.jpg

This has a VQ35HR N/A

I think the RB30det set right with the right turbo will give more then enough power anywhere in the rev range

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 😂 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
×
×
  • Create New...