Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

There are lessons to be learnt all the time working on cars.

One big tip is bunnings don't know or care about bolts. Go to a proper bolt shop for correct grade bolts and advice .

How rooted were the threads? I know that it's too late now, but a die nut would have likely cleaned them up. (Or a thread file, which works out cheaper and more flexible)

Hope you start having some better experiences in the future.

Agreed. Specialised bolt shop or nothing. Threads were pretty rooted but they are no longer an issue. I have replacements for them. Just got news that the bent shock has to be replaced and since its not a readily available brand it seems like the suspension place will be unable to fix it. Headaches....

Amir

Edited by Abdul11

Hey man, pretty sure we met on a track day at barbs. ( i think )

I have the bunky black bashed up 34 .

Just a suggestion, i have used the QFM track day pads a bit now and find they go to crap after 2 hard laps at barbs.

I would suggest going to EBC Yellow or Blue, or Project Mu.

I had EBC before and was alot better.

Im not exactly sure what causes it, but it most likely is related to heat.

And you having those ducts will certainly help.

They are not a bad pad, just once you go past there limit, dont expect to stay out on the track unless you rest them.

Alright. What brake fluid were you using? Also, did you notice they squeal a lot. I drove them around the street a bit after I bedded them in and they can squeal quite loudly at times. I will definitely try to set up the brake ducts as good as I can get them before going out this saturday. Are you doing the NL full day event?

I would, but i recently purchased a r34 shell i will be transplanting my running gear into.
So i will be out of action for a few weeks.

And im running high temp penrite "racing" fluid.

They do squeal first time i put them on, but after a while they are not to bad.

Edited by jay-rod

All the best with the transplant mate. Do you by any chance know anyonw who could fabricate a couple of brackets to which I can hook up the ducts. Im just using cable ties atm and they dont really work in getting the ducts to sit exactly where I want them to

Cable ties are your friend.

I have been using them for year son my skyline and they keep the brake ducts nicely in place.

I had to withdraw from Saturdays NL event but might pop my head up for a look. I am happy to have a look and make adjustments for you.

Track day at barbagallo yesterday - great fun. Other than my gear box (4th gear synchro clips) and suspension issues, the car ran very well. Managed to shave off some seconds off the lap times so I was happy. Good to meet Shaun and thanks for the tips mate. Also good to meet Andrew whos car is an absolute monster.

Thanks to the new rotors and pads I had on, stopping power was substanitially improved. I was able to brake much later than I was before which meant my right foot spent more time where it wanted to be - on the gas.

Only problem with track days is when the day ends. Now what? Looking forward fot the next event.

Will upload pictures of the track day if I find any of my mate.

Till the next episode folks....

Amir

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...