Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Having a few problems getting my box back in my GTST. Any tips? We're doing it on stands so access is limited :(

Had to change the pivot and did the thrush bearing while I was in there. Haven't touched the clutch so it shouldn't be out of alignment.

Any tips on getting it in?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/446516-r33-gearbox-wont-go-back-in/
Share on other sites

If you know the right angle to put it in it will go easy takes me 5-10min to slide it back in on my own doing it on the ground basically tip is get the box positioned as close as you can without the spline hittin the pressure plate jack the box up keepin it on a angle and as you get closer you will have to slightly tilt it to clear the starter motor part once shaft is at right level push it in a little then you need adjust the jack to make the box at the same angle as the engine, if your using a tranny jack you can do it if not then youll need another guy playing with the angle from back of box and you play from front. With a bit of wiggling and twisting will go in no problem.

The angles have to line up in all planes or it won't go in. A couple of things we did that helped:

1. Suspend a length of timber or steel on top of jackstands inside the car (we had the passengers seat out, so 1 stand sat where the seat normally is & the other was in the driver's footwell), over the shifter hole, then use a cam-buckle strap over the timber, through the shifter hole, and around the gearbox. Use a trolley jack under the front of the gearbox. Now you can adjust the angle of the gearbox in relation to the engine. To get the angle right look closely at the gap between gearbox & motor all the way around - should be the same. Use a small block of wood or similar to confirm.

2. Put the gearbox in gear (4th) - now you can rotate the rear spline slightly as you push it towards the engine, thus also rotating the input shaft to "line up" the spline.

We found it much easier with 3 people - one adjusting the strap from inside the car, the other 2 underneath manipulating the gearbox.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
    • So....to find any R chassis part number, get your VIN (will be something like ER33-xxxxxx for you) and go to: https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan and enter it. From there you have access to a web version of Nissan's part system, FAST. It is a bit tricky to get used to, so maybe have a shot and post up what you think.  You can also search by general model but note in some cases your car might have different options so VIN is safest.  On diagram 211 I got 14075-75T16 for Connector, Water Hose If I search for part 14053‑21U10 that you posted, that is also a water hose but not the one bolted to the plenum and 14075‑04U00 is the fitting where the water hose goes into the block.
    • Yeah now we are talking I much prefer coolers in the front middle because it lessens the chance of a small bump to a corner stopping the whole event. I was thinking the AT cooler can move out of the radiator, delete the AT/engine coolant interwarmer and mount a separate cooler with a thermoswitch somewhere further back as is common in racing, that would be one thing. Beyond that, the engine oil cooler is an obvious one to move to the wheel arch, potentially one on each side, but unused space is an issue. I did have a earlier pic with the bumper off but it doesn't show how busy the corners are: DS is full of the auto driving sensors and PS is totally fully of windscreen washer fluid reservoir But ultimately I was hoping to keep the AC, and the water/air heat exchanger is fundamental so it is not just the radiator that needs to be in front BTW here's airflow to the rad as it ran at the track (one horn is gone now and I'll remove the lights next time):
×
×
  • Create New...