Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Within a fully secure underground complex car park some prick has used what looks like a pick and hammer to try bust my lock out or a screwdriver. They never got into my car but the lock is completely totally destroyed.

I have an alarm, immobiliser and steering wheel lock that is always in a hard-lock position when parked.

Is there any way i can just replace the key hole with a metal plate or replace with a keyless entry door handle? This is the 3rd time - 1st in Newcastle, 2nd in Brisbane, 3rd now in Melbourne someone has tried to break the key/lock to get into my car..

Anyone got suggestions? Otherwise im over this car im selling it next week..

post-135908-0-34788700-1407559584_thumb.jpg

Unless it was your own personal lock up garage that only you have the remote/key for, I wouldn't assume it's "fully secure"... even if you had your own garage, nothing is ever secure. Anyone who can gain entry to the basement car park can physically get to your car.

R33 yeah.

Since i have alarm, immobiliser and steering lock fitted ive just removed the barrel key lock from the handle, covered it with a metal plate, painted it same colour as car. Only way they can get in now is smashing window or stealing my keys..

Hate these maggots.

Just FYI you don't need to smash the window to get into an R33. The windows have enough flex in them to pry away and get a coat hanger in there to flick the lock.
It's how my previous 33 was stolen, and also how RACV get in when keys are locked inside.

Passenger door?

disconnceted the locks on passenger door now too - its fully keyless entry.

f**ked if my battery goes flat, but at least less a chance of these maggots stealing my car.. i hope.

  • Like 1

haha fyi the r33 door unlock trick was covered about 9 yeas ago from memory

there was a how-to thread on how to disable it as well in the tutorial section, very old news

  • Like 2

haha fyi the r33 door unlock trick was covered about 9 yeas ago from memory

there was a how-to thread on how to disable it as well in the tutorial section, very old news

What is the trick? just jam a screwdriver in and turn it?

So they had another go last night, now passenger door lock is ruined, drivers side door lock even more so than last week and now they jimmied the window scratching the f**k outta my window and ripping the rubber seals to pieces...

AGAIN didnt get in.. There goes about $500 replacing the seals and locks. :(

Getting really tired if your shit junky thieves.

wow.... that's no longer opportunistic dude, that's targeted at your car... I would either sell it or move it to a new location. Does your 'secure' carpark have CCTV? Have they audited the swipe access at all entry and egress points?

^^^ Good one mate now it's everyone's information. Hell of a lot of captains about to set sail!!

Old news. You can sometimes tell if an R33 has been broken into because the metal/trim above the window is creased from being pried open.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...