Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah seems to be a bit of luck involved. I've hammered 10 pr 12 laps around Wakefield at 1 bar without hurting the turbo (spat a few other things though). Don't have a FMIC either. Other people spit bits of their turbo out at .81 bar. Go figure.

been running my 32 with exaust pod without touching the turb and it went to 11 psi just from that now its got a bleed valve to set it to 14.7 switchable and she is running nice and hard all day every day.

Then again im just waiting for it to blow so i can get a 2540 :)

I am looking to boost my GTR and waant to know is it always the case that all debris from the exhaust wheel goes down the exhaust pipe or is there ANY chance of any bits entering the exhaust ports. I can probably live with the replacement cost of a turbo but don't want to stuff the head/valves etc.

I am looking to boost my GTR and waant to know is it always the case that all debris from the exhaust wheel goes down the exhaust pipe or is there ANY chance of any bits entering the exhaust ports. I can probably live with the replacement cost of a turbo but don't want to stuff the head/valves etc.

i was told if u back off it can go back in the motor ?

anyone know?

ed,

wasnt aware that 32 turbos are a bit more heat resistant. :D kinda happy about that i must say, though i  still want  a 2540 on it.

Its not that 32 turbos are more heat resistant, Its more the fact that the rb20 produces less heat to the turbo than rb25

Its true that a steel wheel will take more heat than the ceramic one. But if you take a RB25 turbo and put it in a RB20 you will be able to run more than 14psi that is possible in its original application.

I did not know that the RD20 turbo had a steel wheel? Why did nissan go to the ceramic one? Maybe for a quicker spool up yime or something...

The biggest mistake people make with bikes, Karts, and cars is forget the guy who designed the thing had a fair idea.... After all he earns a heap of Yen and would be out of a job otherwise.

Safest boost level is standard... end of story! It allows for fuel variables, worn engine components and is working with its mate the ECU who was born the same day.

Additional boost = additional performance. and the reliability is inversely proportional.

That is why most performance mods are sold as a package... and considering you can hardley notice <20kw, it becomes a game of chance, you decide at what level you wish to play...

Good Luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That looks good, but I think you're going to need much beefier side skirts now.
    • They are daft and there's a reason it never caught on. Steering feel? We don't need no stinking steering feel!
    • I gotta pull you up on this. It's driving me crazy. A shutter is something that closes, like over a window or in a cmera. The word you want is shudder. That LSD is clearly f**ked. Take it to a diff shop and get it disassembled and examined by an expert. YOu might have plates welded together or something equally crazy.
    • Define "starting to fail". Wy not just rebuild them?
    • Check the Nistune doco. There are a few assumptions being made here that might not be valid. I will list the things that occur to me: Base map. Base map for what? Base map for Z32? Then the cranking pulse width is probably wrong for an RB25. The extra 500cc of capacity might well be enough to prevent it from catching. Base map for RB25? I don't think you can load one of those into a Z32. You have to just make the settings correct for an RB25 in the Z32 base map. That is either K or the TIM to get the pulsewidth right. Loom. You bought a loom for an RB. And you plugged it into a Z32 ECU. Did you make sure that any iwre differences were swapped. From memory, there's at least a couple. And as per the others, I would suggest making sure that the fuel pressure is correct while cranking and that the injectors are actually flowing as expected. They really must come out and go on the bench, unless you do find that you have messed up as per above points. I would also suggest watching in Nistune to make sure that everything is reading correctly. That the correct binary flags are raised at the right time (like the crank signal), that there's no stupid values in K or TIM. That you have not got mismatched firmware for the ECU and/or a wrong image loaded.
×
×
  • Create New...