Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 50
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Yeah seems to be a bit of luck involved. I've hammered 10 pr 12 laps around Wakefield at 1 bar without hurting the turbo (spat a few other things though). Don't have a FMIC either. Other people spit bits of their turbo out at .81 bar. Go figure.

been running my 32 with exaust pod without touching the turb and it went to 11 psi just from that now its got a bleed valve to set it to 14.7 switchable and she is running nice and hard all day every day.

Then again im just waiting for it to blow so i can get a 2540 :)

I am looking to boost my GTR and waant to know is it always the case that all debris from the exhaust wheel goes down the exhaust pipe or is there ANY chance of any bits entering the exhaust ports. I can probably live with the replacement cost of a turbo but don't want to stuff the head/valves etc.

I am looking to boost my GTR and waant to know is it always the case that all debris from the exhaust wheel goes down the exhaust pipe or is there ANY chance of any bits entering the exhaust ports. I can probably live with the replacement cost of a turbo but don't want to stuff the head/valves etc.

i was told if u back off it can go back in the motor ?

anyone know?

ed,

wasnt aware that 32 turbos are a bit more heat resistant. :D kinda happy about that i must say, though i  still want  a 2540 on it.

Its not that 32 turbos are more heat resistant, Its more the fact that the rb20 produces less heat to the turbo than rb25

Its true that a steel wheel will take more heat than the ceramic one. But if you take a RB25 turbo and put it in a RB20 you will be able to run more than 14psi that is possible in its original application.

I did not know that the RD20 turbo had a steel wheel? Why did nissan go to the ceramic one? Maybe for a quicker spool up yime or something...

The biggest mistake people make with bikes, Karts, and cars is forget the guy who designed the thing had a fair idea.... After all he earns a heap of Yen and would be out of a job otherwise.

Safest boost level is standard... end of story! It allows for fuel variables, worn engine components and is working with its mate the ECU who was born the same day.

Additional boost = additional performance. and the reliability is inversely proportional.

That is why most performance mods are sold as a package... and considering you can hardley notice <20kw, it becomes a game of chance, you decide at what level you wish to play...

Good Luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
    • -10 is plenty for running to an oil cooler. When you look at oil feeds, like power steering feeds, they're much smaller, and then just a larger hose size to move volume in less pressure. No need for -12. Even on the race cars, like Duncans, and endurance cars, most of them are all running -10 and everything works perfectly fine, temps are under control, and there's no restrictions.
    • Update: O2 sensor in my downpipe turned out to be faulty when I plugged in to the Haltech software. Was getting a "open circuit" warning. Tons of carbon buildup on it, probably from when I was running rich for a while before getting it corrected. Replaced with new unit and test drove again. The shuffle still happens, albeit far less now. I am not able to replicate it as reliably and it no longer happens at the same RPM levels as before. The only time I was able to hear it was in 5th going uphill and another time in 5th where there was no noticeable incline but applying more throttle first sped it up and then cleared it. Then once in 4th when I slightly lifted the throttle going over a bump but cleared right after. My understanding is that with the O2 sensor out, the ECU relies entirely on the MAP tune and isn't able to make its small adjustments based on the sensors reading. All in all, a big improvement, though not the silver bullet. Will try validating the actuators are set up correctly, and potentially setting up shop time to tune the boost controller on closed loop rather than the open loop it is set to now. Think if it's set up on closed loop to take the O2 reading, that should deal with these last bits. Will try to update again as I go. 
×
×
  • Create New...