Jump to content
SAU Community

I Am a Retard (can someone please help me!)

adam 32

By adam 32,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

Boostzor Grand Master

Boostzor

Posted
Posted

I thought they had some like "this vin has this key" system and could refab it from there.

I think warpspeed said something about being in japan but i couldnt really understand what he was on about.:P

Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

Well If you drive a late model Skyline that was never sold by Nissan in this country, it is quite probable that your local Nissan dealer is not going to have documentation to decode the VIN, and be able to just quickly whip around the back of the parts store and produce the exact key you need on the spot.

DAMQIK GTS-T Community Regular

DAMQIK GTS-T

Posted
Posted

I keep the key and the spare remote in the boot (hidden) I have a boot release switch (electric) mounted under one of the gards also hidden, The key and or anything else won't open the boot as the lock is disconected.

if I was dumb enough to loose my keys, I can simply pop the boot (setting off the alarm) and retreve the spare key and remote. Quite simple really.

Damqik.

funkymonkey Grand Master

funkymonkey

Posted
Posted

wow now i know how to nick DAMQIK n Warpspeed's lines... anyone else wanna cough up how to break into their car... careful guys, this IS an open forum

Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

Well Funky, I can get into yours anytime I want with a fifty pound sledge hammer. It is much quicker too, like a demonstration ?

Seriously though, if someone really wants into your car there is no way to keep them out. But having your own sneaky way in is the smart thing to do.

If all you do is hide the key, well yes, the insurance company may not be real impressed if it goes off one day, and is found stripped and burned with no forced entry.

But if you have SEVERAL security devices to lock, alarm, and immobilise the vehicle, then getting in is really only the beginning of several problems for the would be thief.

Another point is that when you buy a commercial alarm kit, they give you those silly warning stickers for the windows. This tells the thief exactly what you have fitted. Make your own stickers. The word ALARM is all you need.

I am also convinced that a very visible, very ugly, huge, enormous and immensly strong homemade steering wheel lock is a better deterent than any cheapie hardware shop special.

It demonstates that you are serious, are a bit of a handyman, and probably have a few other little surprises fitted as well.

DAMQIK GTS-T Community Regular

DAMQIK GTS-T

Posted
Posted
Originally posted by funkymonkey

wow now i know how to nick DAMQIK n Warpspeed's lines... anyone else wanna cough up how to break into their car... careful guys, this IS an open forum

I doubt that anybody could get into my car the way that I mentioned as all is hidden, the most likely way any of our cars are gonna be pinched is on the back of a truck! (with Alarm SCREAMING) as no matter of hot-wireing is gonna get my car running for someone to drive off with it.

DAMQIK

Warpspeed Experienced

Warpspeed

Posted
Posted

Well funky, the actual door catch mechanism bolted to edge of the door is connected to the lock barrel, and the door lock tab with long metal rods. There may also be a third rod connecting to an electric lock/unlock solenoid mounted inside the door.

Now the way your thief gets into the car is by either lifting the locking tab with a coathanger, or something. Or else jambing a huge screwdriver into the lock barrel, and with his massive tatooed arms, ripping the lock barrel around, and out of the door.

Bingo he is in. The screwdriver method takes two seconds, and anyone casually watching from a distance would not even realise he did not use a key to gain entry.

Now if you remove the metal rod to the lock barrel, even with the correct key (or a screwdriver) rotating the lock is not going to get you in. Your door and paint is badly damaged though. This is how I lost my car. The screwdriver trick also works the same on the ignition lock. Ask me how I know (sigh....)

So what you do is connect your alarm to your electric central locking. Push your remote, and all doors unlock.

A hidden key is not going to get you into the car though, but it will still get you into the boot, where you hide a spare remote, and a spare key for the steering wheel lock.

DAMQUIK uses a hidden button to gain entry, this may be better, depending on the particular circumstances.

If you are going to respray your doors, I would totally remove the lock barrels, to totally confuse and frustrate the bad guys. Make your doors look better too.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Removing the Barrels sound like a good idea.

Maybe see if the passenger side Door Handle will slide in place of the drivers one?

The passengers door handle doesn't have the barrel in it.. Hence it will look good.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...