Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So i remember the previous owner of my stagea told me the rear had stock suspension, now i just thought he had no idea seeming how low the rear was.

The rear has felt really "saggy" lately so last ngiht i thought i would have a look.

So it seems yeas, i had stock rear suspension, but it is totally stuffed, im able to push the suspension down with my hands =(

Seeming i didnt wanna drive it with such bad suspension i have now put good stock suspension in the rear, and it looks terrible lol.

So now to figure out what i want to do, i dont wanna guy new coil over for the rear as i have a lot of other stuff i have to pay for at the moment,

dont know weather to leave it like this, or try and find some rear suspension thats lowered and good condion????

Before and after pics attached

Kris

post-107907-0-95635100-1409790348_thumb.jpg

post-107907-0-10165200-1409790416_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448248-such-a-sad-night-last-night/
Share on other sites

also whats in the front, make sure it matches. are they just lowered springs alround with shot rear shocks? if so just put new shocks in. dunno why you would run coilovers in the rear and not the front?

It's funny that since you sold me your rear coilovers a mate of yours and now you could have used them! Took a little work to free up the lock nuts but they work all good!

Unlucky....

It's funny that since you sold me your rear coilovers a mate of yours and now you could have used them! Took a little work to free up the lock nuts but they work all good!

Unlucky....

seems like thread could get interesting.

back in for story time.

this is a little odd. why ever run coilovers on the front and not the rear? just take the coilovers out, use stock stuff which someone is surely selling cheap (sold mine sorry) and buy a propper set of matching coilovers when the money is available.

Yeha i never thought i would need them. my own fault lol

Nah no real story.

He sold me coilovers cheap as. I put them on my car. Had to unstuck the lock nuts, easily done.


They work fine.

this is a little odd. why ever run coilovers on the front and not the rear? just take the coilovers out, use stock stuff which someone is surely selling cheap (sold mine sorry) and buy a propper set of matching coilovers when the money is available.

Dunno, like i said it was done by previous owner, seen it done on a lot of cars,

anyway, yeah i will look for a complete set once i have the cash

yeah well the wife said she will get me coil overs for my bday at the end of november, so just gonna puit stock suspension in the dront, just gotta find some as i can seen to find much for sale at the moment

Kris

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So.... the K&N air box thingo was too big, ended up gifting it to a mate, well, by gifting it he actually supplied food and beer at the pub,  which was nice, as it will not sit on a shelf in the garage for the next 10 years I did trim up some of the existing stuff to neaten it all up and gave it some wrinkle paint, unfortunately it currently has a used and abused mish mash of different types of hose clamps, 4 big fat T bolt type (shit), and a few normal clamps of vairing sizes and brands, but..... only until the 6 constant tension black worm clamps that I ordered from EFI solutions turn up next week Currently the current hose clamps are triggering me hard, LOL Is this the final version, probably not, I really want just 2 silicone pieces, a straight bit of silicone from the filter to the MAF is easy and will happen as soon as I head into Just Jap tomorrow, the problematic part is a 30° silicone bend from the MAF to the TB that I can connect the engine breather from the head, I found that there are bulk head fittings for boat bilge pumps that should work, but until I can get a 30° silicone bend the alloy pipe, and the 11ty thousand hose clamps, are there for the foreseeable future 4 hose clamps are golden, 6 are grudgingly acceptable, the 8 currently holding it all together is just taking the piss    I've also ordered 60 more retaining wall blocks for the front yard, I mis-gonculated the height that was required to get above the base of the Photinia's (red robin's) that are the hedge behind the front fence, currently it is 2 blocks high, and about 1/2 a block short, so going 3 blocks high will be above the base of the red robin's, and allow some room for mulch
    • It is the stock air box with the panel filter. Everything else is stock except the exhaust at this point, as I also went back to the cleaned 270cc injectors. I will check the RPM when the IACV is unplugged and report back.
    • As MBS suggested if this is happening when the engine is cold you're going to want to remove the intake air regulator and verify resistance + that the shutter is physically opening and closing. At -20C should be fully open, 20C half open, over 60C fully closed. At 20C should be 70-80 ohms. For AAC valve testing using a Consult cable see if you can raise and lower the idle by commanding more or less AAC duty cycle. Hopefully it's pretty linear as well, shouldn't be like 30% AAC valve is barely idling and 40% is 1500 rpm.
    • Bloody apprentices! 🙄
    • Not sure yet.  Was considering speedtek because it was rated to 800hp, but when I did some research about him I don't think I will go for that🤣 So maybe giken gear set, but I'm afraid it won't be strong enough🙄
×
×
  • Create New...