Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU, my name is Aaron and I am new to the scene and to Skylines. I have come from a 2009 Mitsubishi Lancer VR:

21c59p3.jpg

To this! Quite an upgrade!

2588k8n.jpg

23sesu0.jpg

I picked up this maroon 1992 R32 GTR for a cheap price. It’s a bit beat up and definitely needs some fixing. Has an oil leak, cosmetically it’s a little rough, the clear coat has peeled from the wing mirrors, tail light surrounds, and rear of the side skirts, stone chips on the bonnet, side skirts are broken because it’s so low, chassis rails dented, front lip cracked and paint peeled, no air conditioning, door hinges bent, interior very average condition, two rims have buckled and all have very deep gutter rash.

Modifications that I currently know of are the Work CR Kai rims, Apexi Power FC with hand controller, R34 turbos, Trust front pipe, Jasma cannon (way too loud for me), Momo steering wheel, Tein Type HA coilovers, and an unknown but nice sounding BOV.

Going to go for the clean stock look and try to keep power as stock as possible. Except for the suspension and bracing as I am pretty keen to go to the track every now and then.

I first noticed the oil pressure was very low (almost at zero) so I went out to buy Penrite 10w-50 in an effort to reduce the leak and to raise the oil pressure. When I drained the oil it was super black and only 2.5 litres came out!! Very, very happy I decided to change it ASAP. Pressure now hovers around 4 kg/cm3 :) Also changed in a genuine Nissan oil filter, oh man that was the most annoying and painful filter change I have ever done! Which Nissan engineer thought that was a good place to put the filter?!? Have a few scars on my hand now but I heard that’s a rite of passage for GTR owners!

The steering shakes at speeds higher than 80kph due to the buckled wheels so I bought some stock R32 GTR wheels with near new tyres for a steal, and some trick chameleon lock wheel nuts. Looking pretty baller, but don’t have a proper picture of them yet. Which do you like better?

jzicu8.jpg

However, while changing the wheels, I noticed the coilover boots were ripped and they were leaking oil too… Time for new coils I guess! Looking at either BC Racing coils from JustJap or KW coilovers from a friend of a friend.

dw97aw.jpg

25foihj.jpg

Once I get the new coils in I will definitely be raising the ride height and softening the dampening rate. It’s as if I am riding on rocks at the moment. Then will be taking it to Galvsport for an examination to see what I need to fix next. Was quoted $2200 for a replacement aircon compressor from Nissan! Absurd.

Stay tuned for more of Project Stock! :)

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448339-slowbnrs-bnr32-project-stock/
Share on other sites

Also changed in a genuine Nissan oil filter, oh man that was the most annoying and painful filter change I have ever done! Which Nissan engineer thought that was a good place to put the filter?!?

Hahah, welcome to GTR ownership! Despite the niggles it looks like it'll be a fun project :)

  • Like 1

Thanks for the warm welcome! :)

Plan so far is to fix all of the little mechanical problems it has, and then reapply the clear coat on the tails and mirrors, get the bonnet resprayed, and generally make the car look schmick in stock form. Go to a few track days so I can feel what I need to upgrade next, then I'll look into making around 300kW!

I just ordered a set of BC Racing BR coilovers today from JustJap, can't wait!

Also, does anyone know the stock ride height for a 32R? Can't seem to find the answer after Googling...

Edited by SlowBNR

i am not sure on the health of your engine being a R32 and still using R34 Turbos (i know their BB, but still ceremic)

i just read you want to do a few track days, so unless you dont want to re-build the motor. it may be wise to do a safe tune (around 230-250 AWKW range) and GET your self a oil cooler for track days.

i would also recommond R34 dumps and pair of adjustable CAM gears before doing the tune. a nice nistune is a great options for R32's.

there is a closed FB group called - GTR's And GTR Parts For Sale , join it and have seing plenty of stuff going cheap as people upgrade.

PS - i also got BC Racing BR and love them.

  • Like 1

Welcome Aaron, car looks great!

300kw haha, I thought you were trying to keep it stock power only 2 days ago? At this rate it'll be a 'Nek minnit RB28' build :) Congrats on the purchase man

Thanks! Haha what can I say, booooooooooost is addictive!!! Especially as I've never owned a turbo car before :P I won't be looking for more power in the near future though, it's a long way off :)

i am not sure on the health of your engine being a R32 and still using R34 Turbos (i know their BB, but still ceremic)

i just read you want to do a few track days, so unless you dont want to re-build the motor. it may be wise to do a safe tune (around 230-250 AWKW range) and GET your self a oil cooler for track days.

i would also recommond R34 dumps and pair of adjustable CAM gears before doing the tune. a nice nistune is a great options for R32's.

there is a closed FB group called - GTR's And GTR Parts For Sale , join it and have seing plenty of stuff going cheap as people upgrade.

PS - i also got BC Racing BR and love them.

I am going to get a workshop to inspect the whole car so they can tell me what else is wrong with it, but cheers for the heads up on the turbos and the safe tune, that probably sounds more realistic haha. So 32Rs don't come with an oil cooler from factory? Is the Nistune something I can just flash onto the PowerFC?

Just joined the group, super handy thanks mate!!! :D

welcome! Paint looks in good nic.

Considering its a 92 model you will pretty much have to replace the oil pump if you want to track it...

The pictures are deceiving (I think they are very, very old), there's a ton of swirl marks, scratches, few dents and clear coat peeling.

Have no fear, I will be doing all of the supporting mods before I chase any power or have too much fun with it :) Been reading up on yours too, inspiring :D

Edited by SlowBNR

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
×
×
  • Create New...