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When i bought the car it was running a stock BOV. I then spent $200 on a Turbosmart BOV and it was great for a little while.. But now I'm having a rough idle issue.. When I'm driving and drop gears and go into neutral (or put the clutch in) the revs drop and the car stalls.. Sometimes it'll go down to 100 revs and bounce back up to a thousand but lately it's been stalling more.. Does anyone with knowledge about RB20's know what a common cause of this could be? Everything is stock except brass button clutch, splitfire coil pack and front mount.. Would putting the stock Bov back on stop this problem? Sorry for asking the question but I can't find another thread that has a direct answer. Thanks in advance.

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Sorry for asking the question but I can't find another thread that has a direct answer. Thanks in advance.

Not wanting to be too mean to you, but there would have to be 10^4 threads on here with the exact same question and lots of us screaming at the poster to replace the factory BOV. -4 search points for you!

Not wanting to be too mean to you, but there would have to be 10^4 threads on here with the exact same question and lots of us screaming at the poster to replace the factory BOV. -4 search points for you!

Hahaha thanks for not being a complete dick. But I try to increase my search ability I'm still a nub tho.

Not wanting to be too mean to you, but there would have to be 10^4 threads on here with the exact same question and lots of us screaming at the poster to replace the factory BOV. -4 search points for you!

If you didn't say it, I was going to have to.....

^^what? i can't believe how many australian guys run plumb backs they are far less prevelant over here.

perhaps clean your IACV...you can test to see if its your bov by watching the bov piston return when free reving it..

Gaz all of the AFM guys run plumbbacks to avoid OP's problem.

If it's not a recirc blow off valve then replace the factory one. You can sell the turbosmart one for sure if you're worried about the $200

Edited by Blackkers

umm i run afm and atmo bov and don't have that problem...it can be sorted without changing the bov.

It's also the law in oz.

Like you say it can be sorted but the reality is its not really worth mucking around with one is oz just to cop a defect for it.

Atmo BOV's cause so many more problems than they are worth on an AFM equipped car.

You can fiddle with the atmo BOV, get a retune to make it work (If you have an aftermarket ECU, otherwise factor in money to buy that) then it still wont run quite as nice as a PB BOV, then get a fine for having a venting BOV

alternatively, use stock BOV, buy aftermarket PB BOV, don't need retune, drives as stock

If your buying an ATMO BOV for the sound then you can still get that from an aftermarket plumback.

This is why I say they are not worth the trouble. You are right, they can work. But why would you bother?

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