Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I've seen plenty of info on using claybars, but they never seem to mention which product is used to wash the car with beforehand. Currently, I'm using Meguiars Soft wash gel, as this is what I use to normally clean my car.

Do you use something a little 'stronger' to help strip the paint of any waxes etc still there before you attack it with the clay bar?

Thanks!

Mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448840-product-to-use-before-clay-bar/
Share on other sites

You can use one of those car washes that you leave on the car while foaming. Forget what it's called. Never used it.

However, if you thoroughly wash your car and then claybar it, there will be not a lot left on the paint. That's the job of the claybar. To strip everything off the paint.

Use dishwash liquid. very aggressive wash soap. should remove majority of contaminants.

all purpose cleaner is good for underbody etc.

then clay for the final cleanse of the surface.

Yeah I've heard to use washing detergent (though I think it was clothes detergent, not dishwasher?) which I used on my mits 380 without ill effects, but I've heard other opinions not to use it

Woah - "then clay for the final cleanse of the surface" Im interested to know what people are using after clay baring if anything .......

Use dishwash liquid. very aggressive wash soap. should remove majority of contaminants.

all purpose cleaner is good for underbody etc.

then clay for the final cleanse of the surface.

?

Well the day didn't go as planned, after giving the evo a good 2 bucket wash, all of the scratches and tiny dings were easy to see :(

I didn't even get to clay barring as I spent ages trying to remove all of the road tar specks (used an old, but sealed armouralll product :s)

Then, I found surface rust on the boot. My plan now is to attack the tar once more, then invest in some iron x, then spend ages with the clay bar!

Mate the job of the clay bar is to get rid of tar. If you have ever used a clay bar before then you will realise how quick and easy the clay gets rid of all contaminants. Just wash the car clean then claybar it.

Woah - "then clay for the final cleanse of the surface" Im interested to know what people are using after clay baring if anything .......

?

Buff, Polish, Wax

Waxing must be done after clay barring, Polishing/Buffing will get rid of any swirl marks etc first if you want to do this, but then wax must be applied

Buff, Polish, Wax

Waxing must be done after clay barring, Polishing/Buffing will get rid of any swirl marks etc first if you want to do this, but then wax must be applied

What ? nobody here alcohol wipes in between each step , clay baring leaves so much residue , same with polish = residue . Alcohol cleans between each step , therefore when final finish is applied surface is clean of contaminants .

Yeah generally I do the meguiars 3 step process, but I haven't come across this level of contamination before (only just bought this car). I'll try with the clay bar, it's just these specks are pretty damn big, I thought the clay bar was only good for the small stuff

Yeah generally I do the meguiars 3 step process, but I haven't come across this level of contamination before (only just bought this car). I'll try with the clay bar, it's just these specks are pretty damn big, I thought the clay bar was only good for the small stuff

What ? nobody here alcohol wipes in between each step , clay baring leaves so much residue , same with polish = residue . Alcohol cleans between each step , therefore when final finish is applied surface is clean of contaminants .

Sorry I thought you were confused what to do after clay barring. After re - reading your post it makes a bit more sense that you were more questioning if anyone is really going all out lol.

I haven't gone that far after clay barring before, usually just a good wash afterwards but I'm looking into something better to use post clay barring at the moment

Sorry I thought you were confused what to do after clay barring. After re - reading your post it makes a bit more sense that you were more questioning if anyone is really going all out lol.

I haven't gone that far after clay barring before, usually just a good wash afterwards but I'm looking into something better to use post clay barring at the moment

Final inspection - Light Cleanse does the job nicely

I normally wash after clay barring and just buff with mircrofibre after polishing until I'm no longer bothered :P

I'm about to make an order on waxit.com.au (which i believe is a forum seller/supporter) - if you want $10 off your first purchase, let me know and I'll send a loyalty email to you guys to redeem it (I then get 150 points to go towards something)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I have been being VERY quiet about what you're alluding to, as it is something that ticks me off... The number of cars from factory that run coil overs is HUGE! Most of them these days do... The other part that annoys me, is people saying "Well all the incabin adjustable suspension is illegal by blah blah blah"... If that's the case, then why can I buy a car brand new that can do it if, FULL STOP in cabin adjustable suspension is illegal...   Also, I could just chuck some aftermarket shocks in my car, throw the stock springs on, after my blue slip, dump my super low springs back in. Same shock and spring style setup... Hell, they could also be the same colour springs etc.     I'm voting, BlueSlipper didn't want to touch the above car for some reason. Whether it be some sort of bias against the car, the owner, them maybe having previously done dodgy shit and now they're being super careful in case they get slapped in the face by the Gumbyment again... Find a new blueslip place.   And can confirm as you had said, yes there are holy bibles of vehicle heights, and all sorts of other suspension stuff. Heck your run of the mill mechanic, and tyre shop has access to all of that stuff. It's how they do wheel alignments...
    • Funny story Heading to Sydney this morning on the HWY there was some slow traffic, so I gave it the beans and midway through my overtaking "power run" I lost all power It seems that I missed a hose clamp,  and the MAF and filter went WiFi To make this more problematic, the little tool kit that lives in the boot, is sitting in the sun room at Goulburn......LOL Luckily for me I found a bit of steel on the side of the road that could be used like a rusty and bent flat head screw driver to tighten it up enough that it got me into Sydney, it is now all tight like a tiger with the aid of a 8mm socket Note to self: Use my brain and double check stuff, and always keep that little tool kit in the car for when I have a brain fart
    • Oh, and as for everyone with their fuel economy changes, I switch between E10 and 98 in the company car. Even do when I had personal cars that could run on E10. You know what changed my fuel economy in any noticeable way? How I drove, and where I drove. Otherwise, say on full tanks of just back and forth from work only (So same trips, same sort of traffic), couldn't notice a difference that I can correlate to the type of fuel in use. In the current vehicle, that's over 42L of USABLE fuel. While 98 is all "more energy dense", it also has higher knock resistance as it takes more energy to get it to ignite too. The longer hydrocarbons, typically more tightly bound. So running the same ignition map, can also produce less power, if there isn't enough time to get it all burnt through properly, as yep, the flame propagation speed is different from lower octane fuel to higher (Higher has a lower flame propagation, due to the more tightly bound and harder to self ignite funs. This is also typically where, a vehicle that is designed purely to run on 91 (Whether it be E10 or normal 91) usually sees absolutely no real world difference in fuel economy for the normal man, woman, or dog.
    • We've got some servos around me that have 91 with E10, 91 (no E10), 95, and 98. At those stations the change from 91 E10 to 91, is typically around 8c/L.   But lets not get started on the price of fuel in Oz. It's ridiculous. All the service stations around me, bar one, the price of fuel has been over the $2 mark per litre for the cheapest, 98 being around $2.45. That one service station is a CostCo, fuel from it comes from the same refineries, and makes no pitstops, it runs great, including the 98. In fact, I've had no issues on CostCo fuel, but plenty of issues at other stations!. The CostCo fuel, was $1.65 roughly this week for 94 with E10. $1.88 for 98. Servos directly across from it, $2.10 for 91 E10, and $2.48 for 98. The part I had to laugh at? If I drive multiple HOURS away from Brisbane, say out near Nanango, or Kingaroy, or even out to Goondiwindi, the price of their fuel, is the same as what it is at the CostCo... Oh, and that BP servo at Goondiwindi is HUGE and goes through epic turnover of fuel, so it's not sitting there for weeks going to shit. And what blows me away, my mate is one of the people who drives the Fuel Tanker all around QLD, delivering to all those places. At the same company his previous role was doing the "local haul" deliveries... Same truck, same driver, same pickup point it all comes from. So you tell me, how the hell it is 60c/L CHEAPER for fuel, when nearly all else is equal, except they require a B-Double to drive half a day out of Brisbane, and half a day back, every second day, compared to the delivery that can be under 30 minutes drive from the fuel pickup point... Not to mention, go five blocks down the road, and Ampol to Ampol will vary 30c/L... And I've had this conversation with my mate... The way it's priced, is just typical, pure and utter rubbish... He also does runs from Brisbane, to all over QLD, down to Newcastle, Sydney, Nowra, Melbourne, Geelong, and even out to parts of the NT depending on the companies needs. His main stuff is all the longer distance away from home for a few days at a time, then when he's back, he loves to just pickup extra shifts wherever he can in whichever truck, hence all the weird different places.   Oh, as for getting E10 into all the fuels in Australia... It was very quickly highlighted, that we don't have enough biomass available to use to make E10 sustainably like they require, and it would dramatically cut into our, and the worlds food chain supply...   I vote we all just start running on liquid methane gas... Plenty of that just getting tapped off at tips from underground decay... (Note, this is pure just stupid commenting. I could very easily highlight the reasons its not a good idea especially on scale...)
    • Am I correct in assuming that the R35's are getting the classic skyline haircut off the odometer?  Quick search on carsales, there are 33 08 and 09 GTR's for sale, only 2 of them have more then 100,000km's on them (116,075 and 110,000 respectively).  And somehow there are about 25 for sale with around 60,000kms? Looks like the classic skyline haircut to me =/
×
×
  • Create New...