Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys, I've seen plenty of info on using claybars, but they never seem to mention which product is used to wash the car with beforehand. Currently, I'm using Meguiars Soft wash gel, as this is what I use to normally clean my car.

Do you use something a little 'stronger' to help strip the paint of any waxes etc still there before you attack it with the clay bar?

Thanks!

Mick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/448840-product-to-use-before-clay-bar/
Share on other sites

You can use one of those car washes that you leave on the car while foaming. Forget what it's called. Never used it.

However, if you thoroughly wash your car and then claybar it, there will be not a lot left on the paint. That's the job of the claybar. To strip everything off the paint.

Use dishwash liquid. very aggressive wash soap. should remove majority of contaminants.

all purpose cleaner is good for underbody etc.

then clay for the final cleanse of the surface.

Yeah I've heard to use washing detergent (though I think it was clothes detergent, not dishwasher?) which I used on my mits 380 without ill effects, but I've heard other opinions not to use it

Woah - "then clay for the final cleanse of the surface" Im interested to know what people are using after clay baring if anything .......

Use dishwash liquid. very aggressive wash soap. should remove majority of contaminants.

all purpose cleaner is good for underbody etc.

then clay for the final cleanse of the surface.

?

Well the day didn't go as planned, after giving the evo a good 2 bucket wash, all of the scratches and tiny dings were easy to see :(

I didn't even get to clay barring as I spent ages trying to remove all of the road tar specks (used an old, but sealed armouralll product :s)

Then, I found surface rust on the boot. My plan now is to attack the tar once more, then invest in some iron x, then spend ages with the clay bar!

Mate the job of the clay bar is to get rid of tar. If you have ever used a clay bar before then you will realise how quick and easy the clay gets rid of all contaminants. Just wash the car clean then claybar it.

Woah - "then clay for the final cleanse of the surface" Im interested to know what people are using after clay baring if anything .......

?

Buff, Polish, Wax

Waxing must be done after clay barring, Polishing/Buffing will get rid of any swirl marks etc first if you want to do this, but then wax must be applied

Buff, Polish, Wax

Waxing must be done after clay barring, Polishing/Buffing will get rid of any swirl marks etc first if you want to do this, but then wax must be applied

What ? nobody here alcohol wipes in between each step , clay baring leaves so much residue , same with polish = residue . Alcohol cleans between each step , therefore when final finish is applied surface is clean of contaminants .

Yeah generally I do the meguiars 3 step process, but I haven't come across this level of contamination before (only just bought this car). I'll try with the clay bar, it's just these specks are pretty damn big, I thought the clay bar was only good for the small stuff

Yeah generally I do the meguiars 3 step process, but I haven't come across this level of contamination before (only just bought this car). I'll try with the clay bar, it's just these specks are pretty damn big, I thought the clay bar was only good for the small stuff

What ? nobody here alcohol wipes in between each step , clay baring leaves so much residue , same with polish = residue . Alcohol cleans between each step , therefore when final finish is applied surface is clean of contaminants .

Sorry I thought you were confused what to do after clay barring. After re - reading your post it makes a bit more sense that you were more questioning if anyone is really going all out lol.

I haven't gone that far after clay barring before, usually just a good wash afterwards but I'm looking into something better to use post clay barring at the moment

Sorry I thought you were confused what to do after clay barring. After re - reading your post it makes a bit more sense that you were more questioning if anyone is really going all out lol.

I haven't gone that far after clay barring before, usually just a good wash afterwards but I'm looking into something better to use post clay barring at the moment

Final inspection - Light Cleanse does the job nicely

I normally wash after clay barring and just buff with mircrofibre after polishing until I'm no longer bothered :P

I'm about to make an order on waxit.com.au (which i believe is a forum seller/supporter) - if you want $10 off your first purchase, let me know and I'll send a loyalty email to you guys to redeem it (I then get 150 points to go towards something)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
    • Can you also make sure the invoices on the box (And none exist in the boxes) are below our import duty limits... I jest, there's nothing I need to actually purchase and order in. (Unless you can find me a rear diff carrier, brand new, for stupidly cheap, that is for a Toyota Landcruiser, HZJ105R GXL, 2000 year model...)  
×
×
  • Create New...