Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i got out and had a blast last night at WSID.

it was my first time ever down the quarter and it was awesome.

i was a little dissapointed with my times, i just couldnt hook up a good 60ft time.

so next time i will be running some better shoes i think. this time i was running the std 16" wheels with 205 continental crap tyres at 20psi

it was good to see a bunch of forum guys out there too, thanks for all the advice too!

my best pass was

13.5 ET

2.3 60ft

110mph

what do you guys think would be possible if i could get a better 60ft?

i should think that with such a high top speed thru the traps if you had grip i'm sure a high 12 will be possible. other guys out there have run a string of consistant high 12's with that terminal speed, so you might need better grip - different wheel/tyre combo maybe.

Thats a pretty decent ET.

If you want decent grip and cheap get your self a set of 225 16" Simex's.

They have a soft sidewall. Nice burnout and they get very sticky.

Hows your diff? its not openwheeling even slightly? Its worth around $350 to get them shimmed up nice and tight from a diff specialist.

Just exploring a couple options to help improve your 60ft. ;)

I forget what your mods are?

Thats a good trap speed, ;) which tells me more about the performance of a cae between 60-200km/hr which is what im personally more concerned about rather then traction out of the gate

.

 

Hows your diff? its not openwheeling even slightly? Its worth around $350 to get them shimmed up nice and tight from a diff specialist.

Wouldnt know the names of any places?

joel, my diff is in nee of a service desperately, its nothing like when i first got the car, also my left rear shock that i borrowed was blown, i noticed when i got there it was pissing out oil, and worked like a pogo-stick most of the time.

so maybe diff and suspension would make a difference.

im also interested in the simex's tyres, tell me more ;)

i did notice that one of the guys i ran against ran a 12.2 ET and he had the same 110mph through the traps as me, but is 60ft was like 1.7

I wouldn't know of any places in Sydney. Most good diff specialists 'should' no how to re-shimm a diff. JMS also do it.

When my diff was good it used to make the front end of the car feel like it was launching in to the air in first gear. Not so any more.. ;)

I drove a friends S15 that had mild mods, exhaust, fmic and 1bar of boost.

It made me realise how stuffed my diff actually is.

In the wet my diff tends to open wheel quite a bit.

yeha i need some tyres, what size were your nittos adrian? was it you with them mounted on std R32 wheels?

who knows the cheapest place in syd to get nittos?

ive got the bug now...

so next time ill have some decent tyres and i think i will run less than 50L of fuel like i managed on wed ...idiot

what size were your nittos adrian?

275/40/17

was it you with them mounted on std R32 wheels?

No. There is another Skyline in Aus, probably more, that run 255/45/16's on std 33 gts-t rims although the more common approach is to run this size on R32 GTR rims.

who knows the cheapest place in syd to get nittos?

Come to the SAU BFGoodrich Drag Day on the 11th of August and try some BFG Comp T/A drag radials. A lot of development has gone into them and they're performing easily as good if not better than Nitto's. Brett has organised with BF to have 3 pairs of tyres to share and he's bringing his 3 pairs of 16x8" rims. Club members will have a chance to try these awesome tyres out and then buy new ones at a discounted price.

Details in the Drag section.

Adrian

I always run a full tank of juice, as I figure the extra fuel is offset by the traction advantage of more weight bias over the rear end.

Where is the cheapest place to get Nittos anywhere!? Apart from the US.

Damn it BFGoodrich! Why don't you make a 275-285/40/17 :cheers: I want something to run on my everyday rims (17 x 9). Currently it's either Nittos, or circuit spec semi-comps.

I'd love to see a group drag radial purchase from the US. 2-3k worth between a few of us should make it worth while. I have a mate who has just returned from 3yrs in the US and he has contacts that could organise a shipping container with heaps of Nittos and the like. Food for thought.

Hey Ben, well done dude !! I know you were expecting better, but dont worry the times will come as soon as you are sorted.

A couple of points tho, in your last run you didnt do a burnout which might have helped your tyres get a bit more grip.

And on take off it looked like you got no wheel spin at all, it looked like the car had to rev from low which might have costed some time.

In my car im pretty sure that getting a bit of wheelspin on launch will give a better run than say riding the clutch.....

rrp on 255/45/16's is about $430.00

We should be able to save a fair whack on that price but we'll have to see. For drag racing, proper drag radials make a WORLD of difference. From Falken ZIEX ZE-326's (12.5sec) to Nitto NT555R's 11.9 secs.

All about the first 60 feet dude. The rest is relatively simple. Come to the drag day and try them out. That way you'll be able to decide whether they make a big difference to your times or not and if you're happy, buy a pair.

Adrian

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...