Jump to content
SAU Community

Pull Type Clutch Won't Disengage

iruvyouskyrine
 Share

Recommended Posts

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
Posted

Hey all.

R34 GT-T gearbox with NPC carbotic single plate clutch. Was installed and running fine but engine died so it come out and is going on to the new engine. It looked in perfect condition when it came out.

So put it back in and now it will not disengage at all. Have bled/adjusted the pedal about 26 times now so I can confirm that it's not the issue. Pedal feel is excellent and I will attatch a video of clutch fork movement. Looking inside the box you can clearly see the release bearing pulling back the fingers of the pressure plate what looks like more than enough distance to disengage it.

As far as I am aware the only step you can gosh darn up in the install is putting the clutch itself in backwards? I didn't think it was possible but that's about the only thing I can think of.

Will having it in backwards make the clutch unable to be disengaged?

Any advice/help is appreciated. Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449093-pull-type-clutch-wont-disengage/
Share on other sites
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Should also say that it was working perfectly with the R32 clutch master previously but won't disengage with the R33 master I now use. But by the look of these videos I'm 99% sure it's not master cylinder issue.

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay so it's something internal. Moved the clutch fork until it hit the front of the hole cut out in the bell housing aka absolute full clutch fork travel. Still will not disengage the clutch.

What could go wrong with the pressure plate/clutch plate to cause it to still be engaged even though the release bearing is pulling on the diaphragm?

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

Nothing. Except for maybe it being in backwards.

Either way you aren't going to be able to fox it from the outside. Face the facts and whip the box out.

Edited by Ben C34
iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I know that Benny boy. Just asking if there is any known issues before I beak it open, find everything looks fine and put it all back together and have it not work.

I hope it is something as simple as clutch plate backwards but when I touch stuff it never is. Just got me stumped that it won't disengage even though the release carrier is doing it's job.

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Box out.

Clutch looks good (definitely on the correct way, like I said, impossible to put single plate on backwards) pressure plate looks good, flywheel good, carrier bearing good.

Box in.

Exactly the same problem.

gosh darn.

Broken box?

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Okay.

Clutch master is actuating the slave about an inch and has excellent pedal feel the entire way to the floor, so I would say that is fine.

Clutch slave has a decent amount of throw and no leaks etc, so I think that's fine.

Clutch fork is all good, not bent/cracked etc and the pivot point is all good.

Carrier bearing looked fine no abnormal marks etc.

Clutch disc itself looked fine.

Pressure plate looked fine although I wasn't sure exactly what I was looking for, just looking for general abnormalities. Also the carrier bearing is pulling on the pressure plate diaphragm and is pulling it out as it should.

So everything appears to be in a working condition.

When the car is on jackstands it can be started in any gear and the wheels turn freely and change speed with acceleration. This would indicate the part of the gearbox is fine Imagine (not sure what part as I'm no specialist). I also started the car in 1st gear and drove it around no issues.

When it was driving I was unable to get it out of first though, I was applying a decent amount of pressure on the shifter but it just didn't want to come out of first.

So yeah I have been thinking about it for the last 4 days and have not come up with a single idea that hasn't had a logical conclusion as to why it can't be that part that isn't functioning correctly.

Cash reward offered to the first person that tells me what the issue to my problem is.

MrStabby Grand Master

MrStabby

Posted
Posted

"I also started the car in 1st gear and drove it around no issues." how did you do that with an engaged clutch?

Or is your problem actually "gearbox will not shift out of first" rather than "clutch will not disengage" ?

iruvyouskyrine Grand Master

iruvyouskyrine

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Spoke to Doug at NPC, the maker of my clutch. After I gave him all the information from the testing I have done he said the only thing it could be is a bent clutch plate. Da fark. How did that happen? Anyway.

He was kind enough to send me another one free of charge.

Put new clutch plate it and no change. Feels exactly the same as before. Can anyone recommend a gearbox place in Newcastle? I would rather slam my dick in a door for the next 48 hours than try and fix this piece of shit.

  • 1 year later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • soviet_merlin
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Thanks for doing that Duncan! Makes you a good person in my books. We don't get kangaroos or wombats here. But we have bats and it's similar. AFAIK it's often the mums with a baby attached that get hit because they drop lower when starting from a tree. If you hit an animal, check on it. https://www.ifaw.org/au/resources/wildlife-rescue-app An app to get the closest wildlife rescue contact.
    • Murray_Calavera
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Duncan
      Chris' Toyota Mark ii JZX110

      By Duncan · Posted

      Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • Duncan
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Duncan · Posted

      BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
×
×
  • Create New...