Jump to content
SAU Community

Is My Oil Catcher Plumbed Wrong? Not Catching Oil

KrazyTurk

By KrazyTurk,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

KrazyTurk Enthusiast

KrazyTurk

Posted
Posted

iv had cases of oil leaks before but asumed it was leaking from the oil catcher though i did get that replaced

now i noticed theres still leaks but its not coming from the catcher but from some sort of filter under the pod i think its a breather ?

iv attached a picture of how my catchcan settup is and where the leaking is from (brown shading represents oil leaks)

http://i.imgur.com/P3jxTH7.png

the catchcan itself seems literally empty

my question is why isnt the catchcan catching the oil? but passing down through the breather

R_34 Community Regular

R_34

Posted
Posted

The oil catch can doesn't catch the oil because it doesn't see any blow-by gases through it.

The catch can shall be between the rocker cover and the breather/intake pipe.

As is your catch can is totally useless.

KrazyTurk Enthusiast

KrazyTurk

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

ah i see this whole thing is plumbed incorrectly then and despite the several mechanics i went to about it didnt mention anything

even though the breather is before the catchcan wouldn't the can at least catch something other side of rocker cover?

i have a feeling the can might be installed incorrectly by the mechanic too lol

just figured that the breather/filter i was confused about was there to vent gases/oil to atmosphere instead of the intake

Edited by KrazyTurk
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Yep that's a fairly retarded way to plumb in the catch can. It would only catch what's coming out of the inlet cam cover

How much is coming out anyway? A healthy engine none should come out.

  • Like 1
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That means two things

1 your engine is tired.

2 your catch can sucks. It should be baffled.

Actually it doesn't necessarily mean 2 until such time as he sets the plumbing up properly and then oil still comes out the vent.

OP......you need the catch can to be in the path between the engine and the vent. Merge the two hoses from the cam covers together and hook them to one connection on the catch can. Connect the vent to the other port on the catch can. Run it and report back. If the can works, then there will be oil in it. If the can doesn't work (per Ben's suggestion above) then there will be oil in it and oil outside it!

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

worth noting that the filter/breather is a bad idea. Hook it up to the turbo intake.

1. It's illegal

2. the filter material will become soaked in oil and drip. also it's a fire hazard

3. Supposedly exposing the crank case to vacuum from the turbo will help keep the rings on their seats with a worn engine. I don't know how true this is.

4. Also if you've got blowby, and I assume you do. then boost is escaping from the combustion chamber into the crankcase where it is venting to atmosphere. typically you want this to recirculate to the turbo's inlet. I'm not sure if this would affect AFR's though

Anyway, hook up the catch can between the rocker covers and the compressor inlet. That should allow you to tick all the boxes of legality while keeping oil out of your intake

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

so i hooked everything up correctly and now noticed smoke coming out from exhaust pipe?

Ok that indicates that oil fumes are getting though the catch can so you need to baffle the catch can and/or put an air/oil seperator (could be another baffled catch can) into the line from the catch can to the turbo intake. If there is masses of oil coming out at WOT refer to the oil control thread for more answers.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

When you say hooked it properly most people would take that as you hooked it up the proper way, with the catch can venting back to the inlet.

Are you sure it's hooked up properly at the moment?

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

That's not hooked up properly. That filter on the far right.....shouldn't be there. That hose should be hooked up to the turbo inlet pipe, so that the air that flows through the catch can into the engine has been through the AFM. We explained all that already.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

It's a shame even after being told how to do it you still do it wrong, and are adamant that it's correct.

It's wrong.

Simple as that. If you don't understand that's cool, get someone who knows what they are doing to do it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...