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what mesh filters are people running? and do you still change them every 5k or longer?

Any large 40 micron or less filter should do the job. They can be cleaned as often as you want, but it should take years to clog up at all, unless you have a contamination issue.

get with the times :)

saved my motor on the track last time, car cut out then gave it another hit on the straight and realised.. fuarkkk my AFRs are lean as..!

turned out my FPCM died so my dual relay setup with my own resistor pack was only giving my pump ~10V, then earthed the 2nd relay and away I went again till I snapped my front anti roll bar link LOL

Does the Haltech not have a PWM output to control the pump speed, I have Syvecs S8 with PWM running to a 40 amp H-bridge to slow down the Weldon and am now changing that set up to a Fuelab Prodigy and feeding the PWM directly to it

Nick; I have a Speedflow 10micro SS mesh filter, I will be cleaning it every 5k, still waiting for first 5k mark :)

Does it have a spare digital output? I have a few large solid state relays here if you want to have a play...

Keep in mind you will lose 0.7V over the relay output.

I have exactly 1x output available lol...

Let's see if I'm bored, I might give it a crack... thinking of setting up flex on the car, however I don't like the way Adaptronic does it..

You are probably better off using a PWM load based output from the ecu Johnny, running through a 40 amp solid state relay. Ditch the FPCM all together, or still run it as a power feed cutoff through the feed relay.

I will certainly investigate that, probably do it at the same time when I do my flex setup as I need to crack open the ECU cover to utilise the AUX input/output connector

I've already ditched the FPCM & also the factory relay.. I'm taking the trigger directly of the ECU (trigger that goes to the factory relay).. so even if the FPCM & the factory relay is cactus my fuel pump will still be fed with power.

I notice many people use the output of their factory relay to trigger their external relay. Probably not the best way to do it, as if the factory relay dies.. you're up shit creek lol...

I also dream of Haltech as it's launch control is light years ahead of the Adaptronic :)

It is unlikely the FPCM will die with no load, and every car has different ecu wiring. My ecu controls it's fpcm down the CAN line for example.

I power the relay with the pump power wires on any car I work on, as it works every time. OEM relays are generally very reliable.

I have just been having a look through the Fuelab website and they now have a FPR that has an electric flow meter built in that directly controls their Prodigy pumps, this appears to be a plug and play setup requiring no input from a ECU

As to be expected this setup isn't cheap but is still a lot cheaper then an ECU upgrade and a lot simpler with no calibration required just plug it up and set your base fuel pressure and off you go

http://fuelab.com/products/performance/fuel-pressure-regulators/529-series-electronic-fuel-pressure-regulators/item/52902_electronic_fuel_pressure_regulator/

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=dP6Pogm6Ts0

That's an excellent product. An ecu con trolling the pump is only guessing the fuel flow needed, by actually monitoring return flow the control would be way safer.

Do people think the blocking of the new filters is due to the ethanol cleaning all the years of petroleum gunk out of the fuel system, i.e. contamination that isn't soluble in fuel now being removed by the ethanol?

If so then it would be advisable to do 2 or 3 filter changes when you switch.

I don't think a filter can possibly get completely blocked in a few weeks, to the stage you cannot blow through it. I suspect the Ryco's have a sealant which is breaking down causing the blockages. Just run a stainless mesh filter of 40 micron or less, it will handle the ethanol long term.

The thing that concerns me running a 40 micron filter is that it's quite large.

Paper filters filter to way less than that. So while a 40 micron filter seems to be ok, I would rather run a decent paper filter (if they exist) or even two Ryco filters in parallel. The e85 breaking down the glue is a viable theory, so 2 filters from an e85 compatible car will be what I do when I pull my finger out and get onto e85 (and when nistune releases the flex fuel update for my ecu)

Edited by Ben C34

Agreed, which is why I said 40 or less micron, paper being 10 micron.

Realistically you want any particles fine enough to flow through the injector, otherwise you are just blocking filters for no reason. If the particles are going to get trapped in the filter down inside the EV14, then you obviously need to filter it out. I know 40 micron works, as I have not had an issue running the 1000's, and have never cleaned my mesh filters in the years I have been on ethanol. Anything finer will obviously need cleaning (or in the case of paper elements, replacing) more regularly.

40 micron is pretty fine still.

  • Like 1

FWIW (from my own experiences) - after switching over to E85 (still using stock lines) within 2 tanks I decide to change filter... Being the bored and inquisitive person that I am, I cracked it open.. it was filthy.. looked like nearly coffee coloured and had some gunk in it.

Then popped in a new filter, several tanks later I decided to change to all Gates barricade lines because I was feeling rich LOL... then changed my filter again.. cracked open the 2nd filter and it was filthy again but not as much as the first one.

The car is probably due for another filter change, I'll report back.

Note: I only use Ryco Z201 filters as I'm cheap and can't afford OEM Nissan ones.

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