Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys this has probably been covered but when I search it brings up a blank white page.

But the question is, I've just chopped out a full set of tires, it's scrubbed out all the insides ie. Camber wear the rear left was really bad. I'm just wondering if this is common and what should I look at doing to fix. I've got coil overs in the front and 17's should I look at adjustable front camber arms and castor rods to start off with?. I've got a new set of tires to go on but I don't want to chop them out too. Thanks

Brad

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449797-r32-gtr-suspension/
Share on other sites

I had castor rods done a few months ago along with rack ends and a wheel alignment. But I think they f**ked the alignment up, but having no front camber adjustment means they couldn't have got it right anyway?

I figured it would have been covered before but for some reason when I search no matter what it is I just get a blank white page with no writing no header nothing.

And I tried Google but it lists everything from 31-34 and from wheels for sale to what are these wheel posts lol its quite broad in its search

Edited by 0zhiph0p

Starting point is look for damage, worn bushes etc and get a full wheel alignment.

A trusty suspension place can do an 11ty point suspension check for a few $ > get under the hoist with him and ask Qs about bushes, rods, knuckles, brackets, suspension Brad

Measure the distance from the wheel centerline straight up to start of the guard. I'm guessing your car is lowered, and lowering adds negative camber as the lower control am is longer than the upper control arm.

Also scan and post up the alignment specs.

For search, GTSboy is saying go to google, then enter something like "R32 GTR tyre wear site:sau.com.au" in the search bar.

I've got the alignment printout I'm just trying to figure out how to upload. My mate who's a tire fitter had a look and thinks it's all up the f**k too much camber and suggested the camber arms and castor rods.but Mr shabby that makes sense about being lowered, yer I tried that search too but because Google just picks up words like gtr it lists r32 r33 r34 and doesn't list it in order lol.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...