Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gary's pricing is still not bad, and you do get the custom valving and extra circlip grooves that you wouldn't get buying the Bilsteins vanilla from eBay.

true that, I don't have the circlip grooves on mine...

will be offlloading my set in a few months.. they're great on the street, but not that great on the track unfortunately...

Will be moving onto MCAs coilovers :D

true that, I don't have the circlip grooves on mine...

will be offlloading my set in a few months.. they're great on the street, but not that great on the track unfortunately...

Will be moving onto MCAs coilovers :D

Let me know when you plan to get rid of them and how much. I plan to get rid of my coilovers. Too hard for my liking. Do you have good ground clearance?

Let me know when you plan to get rid of them and how much. I plan to get rid of my coilovers. Too hard for my liking. Do you have good ground clearance?

sure thing :)

You've seen my car (I think).. it's not that low. The rears have about a 2cm gap to the guard and the fronts about 3cm.

The Bilstein pbf cattle dog has the following listed:

NISSAN SKYLINE Coupe (R32)

2.0 4x4, 2.0 Turbo 4x4, 2.6 Twin Turbo 4x4

B6 Sport

Front 24-014717

Rear 24-014724

2.0 4x4, 2.0 Turbo 4x4, 2.6 Twin Turbo 4x4

B8

Front 24-016728

Rear 24-016735

My shocks have the following on the stickers:

Front F4-B46-1471-HO

Rears F4-B46-1742-HO

Most people have the B6's but am not sure what the B8's bring to the party. Says they are a shortened version which would be useful at the front, not so much the back. Don't know what the valving differences are, however.

Edited by djr81

B6 (which is the B46 part number) are great shocks. B8 are the next step up in quality. Hard to say how much better they could be than the B6s, seeing as the B6s feel so nice and work so well. But Bilstein aren't in the habit of telling us lies, so they must have something over them. I agonised a bit over the choice - read the Bilstein website a fair bit, and decided to save the money involved iin stepping up to B8.

recommended spring rate for mostly street use with spirited driving on backroads?

B6 (which is the B46 part number) are great shocks. B8 are the next step up in quality. Hard to say how much better they could be than the B6s, seeing as the B6s feel so nice and work so well. But Bilstein aren't in the habit of telling us lies, so they must have something over them. I agonised a bit over the choice - read the Bilstein website a fair bit, and decided to save the money involved iin stepping up to B8.

I have R32 GTSt, so my comments are kinda relevant to GTR, but with some limitations. So read this with at least one squinted eye.

Stock GTSt spring rates are <3kg/mm. The Kings low and the Whiteline spring that Gary recommends for GTSt with his Bilsteins are about 4kg/mm. I tried these and for whatever reason they simply don't work. They were far too low and could not be set up high enough. So I ended up with the Kings lows for GTRs. These are >5 kg/mm. They are quite firm, but the Bilsteins give great control.

I would expect that they would still be great on GTR, even with the extra weight.

I have posted fairly extensively on this experience some months back, so search up those posts for more accurate numbers and my sad but happy ending story.

It depends. The biggest problem is getting a decent amount of travel t the front. I would recommend Eibach 65 dia springs, 5/5.5/6 kg/mm front and depending on your preference probably a kg/mm softer at the rear. Use 10" spring if at all possible and make sure you get some strut tops as without them the suspension travel is hopeless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For fuelling the Haltechs have O2WB fuel controllers. Very useful for helping tuning VE and correcting for *small* mistakes. Of course if your injector/cam/trigger/sensor data is just wrong (or for a GTT which is not a GT) then you will get impossible reactions to things. I am sure you know this already but the reason people don't typically put haltechs (or any Aftermarket ECU) on GT's is because there's practically no real gains to be had - So this knowledge won't be commonplace.
    • Can someone tell me if the cracks seen in the rear sway bar bushings in these photo's is unacceptable from a roadworthy point of view?  
    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
×
×
  • Create New...