Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

B6 (which is the B46 part number) are great shocks. B8 are the next step up in quality. Hard to say how much better they could be than the B6s, seeing as the B6s feel so nice and work so well. But Bilstein aren't in the habit of telling us lies, so they must have something over them. I agonised a bit over the choice - read the Bilstein website a fair bit, and decided to save the money involved iin stepping up to B8.

From Bilstein:

What difference is there between BILSTEIN B6 Sport and BILSTEIN B8 Sprint shock absorbers?

The BILSTEIN B6 Sport is a mono-tube gas pressure shock absorber designed to dampen wide-ranging vibrations very precisely. Where an oil shock absorber produces an oily foam and creates a spongy driving feeling after a very short distance, the BILSTEIN B6 Sport remains constant, precise and stable. The BILSTEIN B8 Sprint is a mono-tube gas pressure shock absorber specifically designed to be used with lowered vehicles with shorter stroke. It also offers the same advantages as the BILSTEIN B6 Sport shock absorber.
  • Like 1

From Bilstein:

What difference is there between BILSTEIN B6 Sport and BILSTEIN B8 Sprint shock absorbers?

The BILSTEIN B6 Sport is a mono-tube gas pressure shock absorber designed to dampen wide-ranging vibrations very precisely. Where an oil shock absorber produces an oily foam and creates a spongy driving feeling after a very short distance, the BILSTEIN B6 Sport remains constant, precise and stable. The BILSTEIN B8 Sprint is a mono-tube gas pressure shock absorber specifically designed to be used with lowered vehicles with shorter stroke. It also offers the same advantages as the BILSTEIN B6 Sport shock absorber.

B8 is essentially the same thing, just a shorter stroked version

There's no b8 for r33 Gtst but I find b6 to be a bit hard coupled with tein mediums @ 4.0kg front and 4.5kg rear. Have used Whiteline springs before and they felt much more compliant on the crappy roads in sydney

Has anyone successfully done an adjustable coilover conversion and fitted ~8kg spring? Any revalving required for that rate seeing that they're pretty stiff already?

Edited by chiksluvit

Hrm I just had mine dynoed and rebuilt a couple of months ago so it'll be a while before I do anything, thought I'd ask for reference's sake in case anyone or myself want to do this down the track

Wasn't too exy to rebuild them either, prices are very transparent though the additional cost in converting and revalving them is worth as much as a set of BC/MCAs

happy to share the graph but I'll need to dig it up first, will look for it tomorrow.

Keen to get some opinion on this as well

Don't know if GTR and Gtst valving is THAT different? Front suspension is physically different so valving maybe different to accommodate for it. but since bilsteins work on a wide spectrum they may not even have to bother with different valving?

Edited by chiksluvit

B8 is essentially the same thing, just a shorter stroked version

There's no b8 for r33 Gtst but I find b6 to be a bit hard coupled with tein mediums @ 4.0kg front and 4.5kg rear. Have used Whiteline springs before and they felt much more compliant on the crappy roads in sydney

Has anyone successfully done an adjustable coilover conversion and fitted ~8kg spring? Any revalving required for that rate seeing that they're pretty stiff already?

There is a thread on here with part numbers, pricing and pictures about a coilover conversion. I had the king springs, wanted harder and went the tein mediums (4kg, 4.5kg). Found then Tein were at least as comfortable on Sydney roads as the King springs even through firmer. Issue was the front sway was on hard and the rear on medium to counter the firmer rear spring rate. Found that the best option was tein front and king rear combo! <<I still think that is the best pure street/comfy combo. Then I ordered threaded sleeves for the front and bought 5kg Hyperco 2.5" ID springs and paired with the Tein rear spring. Run medium/medium on the sway bars, pretty good balance.

Now have on order the 5.5kg front hyperco springs. Not 100% on how the Bilstein will handle a 5.5kg front without revalving but they handle the 5kg pretty good but I think the rebound could do with being a bit higher.

Local prices for rebuilding, revalving, sleeves and springs is over double USA pricing. Sometimes triple.

threaded sleeve how-to: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374385-bilstein-coilover-conversion/?hl=+bilstein%20+sleeve

Edited by simpletool

There is a thread on here with part numbers, pricing and pictures about a coilover conversion. I had the king springs, wanted harder and went the tein mediums (4kg, 4.5kg). Found then Tein were at least as comfortable on Sydney roads as the King springs even through firmer. Issue was the front sway was on hard and the rear on medium to counter the firmer rear spring rate. Found that the best option was tein front and king rear combo! <<I still think that is the best pure street/comfy combo. Then I ordered threaded sleeves for the front and bought 5kg Hyperco 2.5" ID springs and paired with the Tein rear spring. Run medium/medium on the sway bars, pretty good balance.

Now have on order the 5.5kg front hyperco springs. Not 100% on how the Bilstein will handle a 5.5kg front without revalving but they handle the 5kg pretty good but I think the rebound could do with being a bit higher.

Local prices for rebuilding, revalving, sleeves and springs is over double USA pricing. Sometimes triple.

threaded sleeve how-to: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/374385-bilstein-coilover-conversion/?hl=+bilstein%20+sleeve

what are the setting when you revalve the shocks? I'm still not sure what spring stiffness I should get, the Teins I have now is Poop it bottoms out when going over speed bumps.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...