Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Bought these RCA from Japan for my R32 GTSt, Just fitted them and the circlip doesnt bottom out and locate the ball joint on the arm like it should

Its an R32 GTSt LCA 100%, I am wondering if they sent me a rear or a front R33 one or something that allows for a different height between the flange of the arm and the circlip groove?

Thoughts...people know the difference between all the relative front/rear and model ball joints?

post-462-0-55583800-1413792740_thumb.jpg

post-462-0-29002000-1413792822_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449880-nagisa-auto-rca/
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

LOL, so now that I have had some machine shims machined to suit the OD of the ball joint I have managed to pack the difference in height so now happy.

But....sadly this brings me on to the next problem. The shank is different in taper and diameter.

http://www.rhdjapan.com/nagisa-auto-hyper-roll-center-adapter-front-nissan.html

They are claiming the same part number but appears as though they use different tapers so fark knows why they sell what appear to be suited to R32 owners S13 ball joints.

Can anyone confirm the differences between ball joints between various S-model platforms and R32s???

The taper on the Nagisa Auto RCA appear to be thicker at the top. Tempted to turn them down but fitting them in a lathe wont be exactly easy. This is starting to get frustrating :(

Seems in hindsight I shoudl have checked Ikeya who list different part numbers. Seems they are the only ones that care about being right rather than close enough is.... I dont want to spend the money but at least I can be sure they will fit. After buying new bushes, RCAs etc the std front arms already owe me about $350-400 and really want to try and make it work if I can find an RCA for an R32 GTSt

http://www.rhdjapan.com/ikeya-formula-roll-center-adjuster-pillow-lower-arm-kit-nissan.html

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449880-nagisa-auto-rca/#findComment-7452392
Share on other sites

Just found this posted on a forum by Cazman

S13 Front
Taper low diameter 15.8mm
Taper High diameter 18mm
Taper length 19.5mm 20mm
Diameter where it presses in 41mm

S13 Rear
Taper low diameter 15mm
Taper High diameter 18.6mm
Taper length 23mm or 23.5
Diameter where it presses in 38mm

R32 front
Taper low diameter 15mm
Taper High diameter 18.6mm
Taper length 23mm
Diameter where it presses in 41mm

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449880-nagisa-auto-rca/#findComment-7452488
Share on other sites

OK some other numbers copies and pasted from other forums

The S13 balljoint has the following measurements:
length of taper 19.5mm
diameter at top of taper 16mm
diameter at bottom of taper 18mm
length of threaded section 22mm

The R33 balljoint has the following measurements:

length of taper 24mm
diameter at top of taper 15mm
diameter at bottom of taper 18.5mm
length of threaded section 23mm

It seems the Nagisa listing is wrong and need to buy their S14. Silly bastards. LOL anyone need S13 RCAs ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449880-nagisa-auto-rca/#findComment-7455428
Share on other sites

So broke out the verniers and hunted through boxes of rubbish to find my old R32 GTSt ball joints.

The R32 balljoint has the following measurements:

length of taper 24mm
diameter at top of taper 15mm
diameter at bottom of taper 18.5mm
length of threaded section 23mm

LOL, so same as R33, provided those dimensions posted above for R33 are correct. But based on Sick_R31 is saying they are and finally can go spend another small fortune with some peace of mind

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449880-nagisa-auto-rca/#findComment-7458069
Share on other sites

From my reading most S14/15 and later R33/34 platofrms use the same front to rear. The R32 uses different ball joints from to rear.

I will measure them up though as I have the R32 GTSt rear and the new R33 GTR rear cradle with Nismo arms etc so have them there to measure up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449880-nagisa-auto-rca/#findComment-7459307
Share on other sites

Hey Roy, if you come across the rear, outer LCA ball joint sizes can you post them up too? Or are all the ones you've been posting for the rear LCA outer ball joint?

Are you chasing replacements or looking to get something machined up? For replacements http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/steering-and-suspension/lower-ball-joint-bj261.html and measurements i should be able to get some by Friday

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/449880-nagisa-auto-rca/#findComment-7461205
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...