Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Morning all.

ive searched and searched for awnsers so here goes..

mocking up aftermarket fans to my car and its come to wire them up.
am using a link g4 so was going to have the ecu controlling them,
my plan is to use my original a/c wiring and relay for the fans.

this requires me to bride my A/c pressure sensor in order for this to work.

So im trying to track down wiring diagrams to find where the pressure sensor plug is located
as a/c was removed prior to me owning the car.

If anyone could point in the right direction or if anyone knows exactly where the plug is located would be great.

cheers

thats the thing im not adding, im trying to utilize wiring thats already there. sorry should have been more clear.

to do this i need to know where the a/c pressure switch is, with this bridged i can just trigger the a/c relay @ the ecu to activate my electric fans.

i can only find r33 ecu wiring diagrams are they the same as r32? also anyone have a.c still hooked up and can give me a hint as to where the plug for pressure switch is?

Edited by r32rb26/30 gtst

tuner tells me he uses this method all the time but he couldn't remember what colours the wires are all he could tell me
is that the wiring (for the pressure switch) is around the front headlight area. (hes a busy guy)

Il be doing amps draw tests etc once i find this pressure switch anyway so il find out :)

please don't comment on my post with unnecessary statements. unless your trying to help.

:)














Do you consider my comments unnecessary?

Wow.

I didnt kow there was some kind of check I had to do or standard I had to meet. ;) I think you will find comments are helpful.

In the amount of time you spend researching and stuffing around to use the old wiring (which may or may not be up to spec) you could have run a couple of wires, a relay and a fuse and be finished.

not all of your comments just the one saying "Is the stock wiring up to running some big electric fans? i doubt it"

do you actually know this for sure?

how does that help me at all? i do find it unnecessary sorry if that offends you. all im after is help.

yes i agree, i could just add wires and relays and a fuse but that's not what im doing.

As said im utilizing wiring that is already there, the wiring may or may not be up to task il be figuring that out once ive found
this lovely pressure sensor. instead of just guessing ;)














Why don't you contact these guys? I hear they have a knack for coming up with simple, elegant solutions to Engineering problems. sounds like they will be right up your alley.

http://www.rubegoldberg.com/

  • Like 1

I think you've misunderstood the instruction from your sparky.

As Ben replied, the wiring from the aircon dual pressure switch is quite light, just sufficient to operate the aircon relay and way too light to run a high amp draw thermo fan. (The pressure switch is mounted on top of the receiver/dryer)

The wiring to the compressor clutch however is a different story, is quite generous in size and is what I think your sparky was speaking of.

As for wire colours, forget it.

Nissan have a million colours and when they've run out or colours, they start adding coloured stripes.

Nobody has the same colour sense, your lilac might be my blue, which is why we use multi meters.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...