Jump to content
SAU Community

Back End Feels Light

AMR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah definitely man. They are most likely on their way out. I was looking at MCA and heard good things about it. It is a bit pricey though, but they have been proven on the track. I'll keep an eye out for some second hand stuff atm and we'll see what happens.

  • Replies 63
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

warps
warps

What is this fascination people have with second hand suspension? In most cases a set of new dampers into your old suspension will be miles ahead of crappy second hand shit that's been in 20 different

GTSBoy
GTSBoy

Too stiff.

GTSBoy
GTSBoy

FYPFY

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

A mate of mine got 8kg/8kg MCA Blue for his Evo7. With 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 rubber, the ride was unnaturally comfortable, almost standard-like. We drove through some rough roads that my GT-R would never be able to do at the speed his Evo went (like 50 km/h, really rough road). It was incredible.

Shows that a well dampened unit can use higher spring rates 'comfortably'.

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

A mate of mine got 8kg/8kg MCA Blue for his Evo7. With 245/40/18 Hankook RS3 rubber, the ride was unnaturally comfortable, almost standard-like. We drove through some rough roads that my GT-R would never be able to do at the speed his Evo went (like 50 km/h, really rough road). It was incredible.

Shows that a well dampened unit can use higher spring rates 'comfortably'.

And also.....you cannot compare spring rates between cars. Different suspension geometry means that there are different lever arm lengths working on the suspension unit. a 4kg spring on one car might be quite firm but be waaaaay too soft on another, simply because the second car has a longer lever working on it. Squishes the spring less, but can apply more force over that short distance.

AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thats right. Which brings to the question, can you compare spring rates on the same model of cars. So can we safely compare spring rates among R33 GTSTs? Im guessing to a degree we can, but obviously the different setups guys run and different components they use and possibly allignment specs will have a bearing so it won't be a dead accurate comparison. Yay? Nay?

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

*damped*

Just sayin'

Thanks, didn't proof read (shifty typing at work :P).

And also.....you cannot compare spring rates between cars. Different suspension geometry means that there are different lever arm lengths working on the suspension unit. a 4kg spring on one car might be quite firm but be waaaaay too soft on another, simply because the second car has a longer lever working on it. Squishes the spring less, but can apply more force over that short distance.

Yeah I agree, but 8kg springs on any road going car should be noticeably stiffer compared to stock, no? I drove and rode in his car before the change, I changed the standard struts out my self on the weekend. Reference to my GT-R was to paint the condition of the road we went over, not to compare the two cars' handling.

Thats right. Which brings to the question, can you compare spring rates on the same model of cars. So can we safely compare spring rates among R33 GTSTs? Im guessing to a degree we can, but obviously the different setups guys run and different components they use and possibly allignment specs will have a bearing so it won't be a dead accurate comparison. Yay? Nay?

Agree. Best way to compare is to ride in the car itself, which of course is pretty difficult.
GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

Any 2 R33s (so long as not comparing GTST with GTR as the weight distribution is a complicating factor) can be compared spring rate for spring rate. Everything else in them is the same unless someone has significantly longer lower arms or the like.

That said - ARBs are a confounding factor that most people neglect when talking about this stuff. You cannot compare my car to one with 8kg coilovers if they only have stock ARBs. My ARBs probably contribute 50% of my roll stiffness and maybe 50% of my single wheel bump stiffness (if I could be bothered figuring it out). On the 8kg coilover car, that could be only 10%. Just to make up a believable random comparison.

V28VX37 Veteran

V28VX37

Posted
Posted

Any 2 R33s (so long as not comparing GTST with GTR as the weight distribution is a complicating factor) can be compared spring rate for spring rate. Everything else in them is the same unless someone has significantly longer lower arms or the like. ...

Good to know, I always wondered about that. I once worked out that the stock springs are like 2.7kg/mm or something so all the Jap spec stuff at 10 or 12 kg/mm seem completely over the top. I also find it interesting how small the coilover spring diameter tends to be compared to the stockies, they're tiny...

Also great point about the swaybars, it seems that a lot of cheapie coilovers attempt to take on the job of the swaybar by upping the spring rate. Instead a lower spring rate + bigger swaybars is the better solution AFAIK. At least that's what I did :)

  • Like 1
AMR33 Mentor

AMR33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I was thinking of going something like this for now, for 'testing'. What do you guys think? Anyone know what spring rates these may be? Seller doesnt know.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281478597591?item=281478597591&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123&vxp=mtr

Cheers

owen1r Collaborator

owen1r

Posted
Posted (edited)

One last thing, how do I know if a set of coilovers has adjustable damper by looking at it?

Cheers again

Little adjustment knob, most likely on the top sometimes on the bottom. Google for pictures of BC coilovers to give yourself an idea.

The ones you have linked are damping adjustable by the look of it.

Edited by owen1r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • codygrimm27
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By codygrimm27 · Posted

      Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...