Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

No idea. But saw this in the Known Bad Traders list, similar name but diff phone #

Known Username(s): skyzthalimit
Email: [email protected]
Location: Western Australia
Names Used: Don, Don Shaw

Mobile Phone: 0415 051 226

  • Like 1

There's only one D SHAW in Sydney;

361 Kent St
Sydney NSW 2000
(02) 9279 0787
I doubt that's a match though - that's a pretty expensive apartment building by the looks of it.

With the BSB being the CBA in Martin Place....it does add up though

  • Like 1

+1

thats how things are bought online lol

That's how people get scammed and why sites like this are full of scammers taking advantage of that mentality.

Use PayPal or COD if you can't see the goods in person. Criminals and honest folk dress the same.

That's how people get scammed and why sites like this are full of scammers taking advantage of that mentality.

Use PayPal or COD if you can't see the goods in person. Criminals and honest folk dress the same.

Whilst i get your point, it's not that easy with online sales.. paypal is useless and in my 3 disputes (fake items, items not showing up) they have never returned my money even with their your covered policy. and COD is just not always available.. It's just the way of the internet..

Sorry to hear for the OP.

It's not the way of the internet at all. If it's not safe, simply don't do it...or be prepared to lose your cash. Like I said it is this complacency that makes this place such an easy target for scammers.

I've never had those issues with paypal. I've given them records of PM conversation and they've asked sellers for postage tracking numbers and I've been able to resolve every case I've ever opened. PayPal is usually enough to scare away most scammers. In any case, it affords you that extra protection over and above a bank deposit. You can also make the seller put up an eBay listing so you can see their feedback...I don't know of anyone who doesn't have access to an eBay account these days.

Fake items might be hard to prove, but that can happen in real life transactions too. This is about the goods never turning up at all. Just because transferring money blindly to someone online may be the only way to buy something off someone, does not mean you should necessarily buy it. People get so desperate for the parts they are chasing, that when they spot a good deal, they put on blinders to how dangerous what they are doing is and sometimes end up still without the part and minus a lot of money.

It really is the internet equivalent of some random guy in a carpark offering you electrical goods and you giving him your cash and saying can you come back next week with the goods. How often do you think that guy is gonna turn up?

Have some patience and take some precautions people - in 90% of scamming cases I see on here, both of these are missing from the buyer.

thanks for the support guys!!

I have some people on the right side getting more info on this guy. I have 150 cousins in sydney (really).

three of them are c#ps

who ever owns that account, is going to cry

They still need to be discreet until they can draw definitive evidence.

Requires lots of Qs + the right Qs + collate corroborative data.

Might take a while.

You deposited funds into a random person's bank account before receiving the item?

You would send out parts to a random person before receiving payment?

Just saying.

You would send out parts to a random person before receiving payment?

Just saying.

No I'd use PayPal or the many methods of doing it safer that I've already mentioned. No wonder scammers succeed with idiots like you around.

Just saying.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...