Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys I am looking at new injectors for my RB26 R33 V-spec skyline I have found some on eBay which are Deatschwerks 1000cc.

I have attached the specs to this post in a picture from ebay. I see a lot of people using id1000s etc but these are more affordable and don't want to spend a heap if I can avoid it.

Any experience with these? Fitting ok? Performance wise?

Thanks so much for your help!

:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450888-injector-tips/
Share on other sites

He's asking for gtr which should be the bosch top feeds I guess?

I don't know they might be cheap but if you add the time and cost to ship them over, you are probably better off getting them locally through Scotty.

Something goes wrong then it's another 2-3 weeks wait and USPS is bloody expensive already

If you get them locally you will at least have a peace of mind that you will get local support and if something is wrong or missing you will get your part quickly

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450888-injector-tips/#findComment-7428634
Share on other sites

DW top feeds I cannot comment, however they look like remanufactured Bosch Top Feeds or similar.

DW side feeds are absolute garbage, I initially had good experience with them on the SR platform but on a RB they're just a load of horse droppings. I'm led to believe that the inlet port design of a SR vs A RB is slightly different so the atmomisation characteristics are different.

Anyhow stick to local stuff, you'll end up swearing less :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450888-injector-tips/#findComment-7428763
Share on other sites

Considering the fuel pump, injectors and turbo are the critical parts to a high performance car, these are the parts you should be spending big on. Skimping will only end in tears, and retunes are so damn expensive these days, almost the cost of the local injectors you should have bought.

You haven't asked what I can do decent Xspurts for, or how good my after sales service is, you just went to ebay and expected the first cheap injector would do the job. But you will obviously get no help from Ebay sellers, and returning them when they aren't up to the task is expensive or impossible.

It's your coin at the end of the day, just offering our hard earned knowledge as we have all been in your position before.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/450888-injector-tips/#findComment-7428958
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
    • I suppose it was relatively stock too, the JZ motor handle most mods thrown at them without even breaking a sweat 
×
×
  • Create New...