Jump to content
SAU Community

Dump and Front Pipe combinations

Bass Junky
 Share

Recommended Posts

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
Posted

Hi ppls

In your experience, would there be a lot of diference between the following (Assume the Cat is a Batmbl big one and the Exhaust is a Fujitsubo Power Getter):

Standard Dump Pipe with Blitz front pipe.

Split Dump Pipe and Blitz Front Pipe.

Batmbl combined Dump and Front.

CESRacing full split Dump and Fron combo with wastegate gases joining rest of exhaust about 4-500 mm down the line.

I'm torn you see.

I have the Standard Dump with Blitz Front, and I'm wondering if its worth the money to upgrade the combination...

All help appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/45114-dump-and-front-pipe-combinations/
Share on other sites
Guest Robo's

Guest Robo's

Posted
Posted

In your situation i would be definately upgrading to a split dump and joining to your Blitz front. Your exhaust can only flow as good as your first restriction and i believe it would be in your stock dump. Even the BATMBL front pipe is bigger than the stock front.

I have the BATMBL dump. but if i could get my hands on a split dump i would love to try it as when the wastegate opens there would have to be some turbelance with the exhaust turbine which doesnt help flow.

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Bastard.

I want one.

Wanna do a comparison thing for us....

A dyno run before fitting anything, a dyno run with the cat back, and a dyno run with all the bits.

I'll pay for one run as a service to SAU..........

Or maybe a nice workshop is reading this and would help us out by not charging us four runs............

Anyone?

meshmesh Mentor

meshmesh

Posted
Posted

This is interesting, and I am all for a free flowing exhaust... BUT my GTR with the HKS GT2530's and everything that goes with, makes the same as others with the same mods. However I don't have aftermarket dumps and I'm still using the stock cat, the rest of my exhaust is aftermarket. Yep! I'm still using the standard "big time restrictive dumps"... :confused: well so am I.

There's the argument that:

- split dumps are better because they split the gases

- then you have HKS split which are only 150mm long "similiar to CES splits", but this is apparantly not effecient, and some will say you need the TRUST combined front pipe & split dump where the split meets around 400mm down rather than 150mm like the HKS.

- then you have companies like mines who have a dump with no split just a big muther opening..

- then you my tuners tell me save your dosh because the gain on dumps is very minimal, based on dyno testing.

still :confused: ..hmm so am I ! Didn't mean to throw this at ya. :)

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I'm up in the air about it too.

Looking at the R34 cast dump, it can only be restrictive!

But Hypertech told me that there is very little difference also. Maybe 4 or 5 at the top end.

But surely, response would be better?

I'd really like to see the Boost Curve with diffent combos on......

GTRgeoff Grand Master

GTRgeoff

Posted
Posted

I'd say on the stock boost you would find little gain with the stock dump, but the response would likely change. At higher boost there is a definite change with the BATMBL style in the midrange and the exhaust note..

I'd sell the expensive engine pipe and probably pay less for the combined dump pipe and come out ahead. They are easy as hell to fit but make sure you use anti-sieze paste on the threads.

In reality, when you look at the turbine outlet and the wastegate outlet diameters I see little need to go split on the standard turbo. There is a definite flow impedance designed into the stock dumps however.

pinoi_boi_r33 Community Regular

pinoi_boi_r33

Posted
Posted

Later down the road I will probably be putting a to4 on and at the moment just have a cat back on a 33gtst. I am in the same sorta boat as bass junky Most cost effective is dump and front in 1 (non split) ie. batmbl or flyn and is CES wank factor for the price (How much did you get urs for Daz) ? I can get a 3inch front pipe cheap but split dumps r still expensive. What do u guys reckon i should go with? Maybe getting a local exhaust shop to have a look and give me a quote on making a split one up. Dandenong exhausts made a nice one for a friends rex.

sorry to hijack thread :(

craz0 Proficient

craz0

Posted
Posted
Hi ppls

In your experience, would there be a lot of diference between the following (Assume the Cat is a Batmbl big one and the Exhaust is a Fujitsubo Power Getter):

Standard Dump Pipe with Blitz front pipe.

Split Dump Pipe and Blitz Front Pipe.

Batmbl combined Dump and Front.

CESRacing full split Dump and Fron combo with wastegate gases joining rest of exhaust about 4-500 mm down the line.

I'm torn you see.

I have the Standard Dump with Blitz Front, and I'm wondering if its worth the money to upgrade the combination...

All help appreciated.

What about a HKS dump pipe?

Bass Junky Grand Master

Bass Junky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Crazo

That's what I'm talking about.

they sell for over $500 new.

At that price, would be better to sell my front and buy the CES racing one.

Decisions...

Enrico... Ultimate Performance Imports have an R33 HKS Split Dump pipe on their page for $350.

Wont fit an R34, but will fit yours.......

Steg33 Community Regular

Steg33

Posted
Posted

Sorry of rthe hijack but I've got a custom stainless split dump pipe for sale if anyone's interested. Was only used for a few months before an engine rebuilt and other mods made me change. Asking $250 but open to offers.

Pm me for pics and details.

Steg33 Community Regular

Steg33

Posted
Posted

I'm not fully sure of where it was made because i bought it off INASNT when i bought his turbo at the end of last year. The thread for the dump is still here but the dump is not as shiney now due to use, still the same part tho in good condition tho.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...light=dump+pipe

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shizu
      Sheraaz's R34GTT Build

      By Shizu 路 Posted

      Omg Brake pedal removal.. FML!!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      I mean, I can confirm the TPS is at 100%.... I can confirm when we installed the TB and setup the cable that the TB was indeed fully open at max pedal travel.. the same 'curve' (WRT MAP vs MAP) existed with the previous setup/TB/manifold as well... No, we did not do a run with no intake connected. I would love to go back in time to do such a run to rule out the intake. It would have also been good to do a run with the airbox lid off. There's a test there where increased IAT vs more available air could be a positive tradeoff. I remember taking the lid off my R34 Turbo setup back in the day and noticing a monster increase, even if IAT's did go up. Could be similar. Hard to test unless I find a very deserted road. 
    • LaurelPWR
      Forced Performance Hta Turbos

      By LaurelPWR 路 Posted

      That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 馃挭馃徏 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz 路 Posted

      I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
脳
脳
  • Create New...