Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I had Type Bs in my 34 when I bought it and dialed them in best I could and still wasn't happy with what they did so swapped them out for Type Rs (only cause I couldn't find stock R34 cams for sale at the time) and made same peak power, +/-2-3kws, but came on +/-800rpm sooner

I know why this is but CBF writing it from my phone :(

  • Like 1

I got type b for my 25det neo but haven't installed them yet, somebody told me to go the smaller cams for this reason but majority said the type b's were better, and tomei claim the type b make more peak power and better response than type a

Tomei will tell you what ever it takes to sell you a cam, other people it's the placebo effect of it makes 10kw more up and at idle it goes "wank wank wank" but what most people forget to tell you is it makes 20kw less thru the bottom

But with playing with lift and duration in many set ups, we've (me, Mic, piggaz and others) proved that on low mount turbos the bigger duration cams make everything worse

An easy way to look at it is to increase response people increase compression and larger duration cams reduce compression

As a side note I thought so much of my type b pon cams I gave them away

I am talkin on a 25 neo, where there is no 'type r' available. Stock cam is intake 236 8.4mm exhaust 232 6.9 mm and the type b is 260 9.15 intake and exhaust.

But do tomei measure from base lobe or from .050" lift?

Although I am going top mount forced performance 3076 it is still not a large turbo, perhaps I should go with type a with 252 degree and still 9.15mm lift, it is still a considerable amount larger than factory

The type b on the neo engines Is good.

Type b on rb26 not so good.

260 is the advertised duration. You can Google tomei cam cards and see the duratiom at 50 (around 222 from my crap memory)

Edited by Ben C34

Cams are cams and work on crank rotation angle, makes no mind what engine they are on

Go the 252s

The Tomei cam duration is takin from lobe contact on to lobe contact off given the correct clearences from bucket

Sort of. Perhaps it's the vct on the neo that makes up for the loss on the rb26.

Vct wins. Neo has vct. Neo wins!

Neo is a sales gimmick and not worth shit on a turbo, add lift to it and then maybe but I'm yet to see a neo match my 32 for power AND response on the same boost and my 32 still runs bush bearing stockers :/

I can not post pics for some reason, will see if I can get someone to post it for me

Tomei will tell you what ever it takes to sell you a cam, other people it's the placebo effect of it makes 10kw more up and at idle it goes "wank wank wank" but what most people forget to tell you is it makes 20kw less thru the bottom

So much right in that statement.

Just because someone makes something and their marketing says you need it - does not mean you buy it.

Although I am going top mount forced performance 3076 it is still not a large turbo, perhaps I should go with type a with 252 degree and still 9.15mm lift, it is still a considerable amount larger than factory

For that size of turbo, which really isn't big, stock cams would still be a pretty damn good choice if you needed to spend money elsewhere like:

Brakes / Suspension / Diff / Clutch - starting point of total spend is around 8k.

And if you haven't spent money in those 4 areas - you should be before touching the cams because you'll actually get decent benefits of being able to stop better, actually drive around a corner with the added power and/or actually put said power to the ground. All are critically important, far more so than a few kw here/there on a graph.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
    • If they can dyno them, get them dyno'd, make sure they're not leaking, and if they look okay on the dyno and are performing relatively well, put them in the car.   If they're leaking oil etc, and you feel so inclined, open them up yourself and see what you can do to fix it. The main thing you're trying to do is replace the parts that perish, like seals. You're not attempting to change the valving. You might even be able to find somewhere that has the Tein parts/rebuild kit if you dig hard.
×
×
  • Create New...