Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm having a 30 bottom end built with the stock crank, forged Pistons and rods and the whole thing will come out to about half the cost of a stroker kit off the shelf

That's the upfront costs.. If you have a GTR the you need a 4wd adapter plate, the block sits higher so your pluming and exhaust needs to be modified, I'm sure there's plenty I've missed.. It's the small things that add up

Yup everyone thinks its easy to just slap a Rb30 together for a GTR. If its twin turbo its a mission since it lifts the head up 35mm. When I did my build it was a minimum of $4000 extra on top of my forged motor. So I set about keeping as god intended it. 2.6L TT. Sort of wish i went a nitto stroker haha.

  • Like 1

Yup everyone thinks its easy to just slap a Rb30 together for a GTR. If its twin turbo its a mission since it lifts the head up 35mm. When I did my build it was a minimum of $4000 extra on top of my forged motor. So I set about keeping as god intended it. 2.6L TT. Sort of wish i went a nitto stroker haha.

I was considering the 30 for a while, the. Decided it was just easier a d cheaper to build a 2.9 stroker..

Got to use a few old parts and I like the idea of keeping the standard sized block

I was considering the 30 for a while, the. Decided it was just easier a d cheaper to build a 2.9 stroker..

Got to use a few old parts and I like the idea of keeping the standard sized block

With the 3.0 and the comp housing on your turbo, it would be hanging out of the bonnet!

Dollar for dollar the RB30 is cheaper, mine as example

RB30 complete motor $150 :yes:

Prep crank with collar $500

Adaptor plate, platinum race( the dear one ) $1250, can be done for $500

Machining for adaptor plate ( included close girdle and line bore ) $1700, not needed for other adaptor plates

Forged Pistons and rods delivered from states $1500

ACL race bearings ( mains and big end ) $250

That brings you to the start point of a stroker so the rest would be the same

$150

$500

$1250

$1700

$1500

$250

=$5350

And the extra drive you get from the 30 crank is soooo much better

I used R32 GTR twin turbo and plenum hoses which fit perfect and look stock as

I was getting a new exhaust anyway and it starts from the CES dump pipes

Intake was taking care of with the R32 hoses going from twin turbo pipe to chassis and plenum to chassis, though if you have a 32 that won't work :(

Oil returns was a -12 bung welded onto sump

I believe if the block is older than the car it has to meet the emission standards of the model of car its in.

ie it would have to be bone standard and im240 tested etc

doable on e85...but e85 needs an aftermarket ecu....so technically not legal.

If you're getting it engineered then a passed IM240 means you can bypass the block/car age issue, non-factory tune issue etc. Of course that only covers tailpipe emissions - you still need charcoal canister, plumbed in PCV etc. (Assuming i understood what the Engineer said at the SAU NSW tech evening).

Try fitting a Tomie pump on a RB30.

Wont go straight on, sits 2.7mm out from the block.....more mods with a die grinder.

So much more than meets the eyes......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
    • Is this a brand new LSD? if so, have you followed any break/bed in procedure for it? Usually involves heaps of figure 8 patterns, a fluid flush.
    • It's TWO steering wheels actually. 😛 one for each hand They are wheels, and they steer!
×
×
  • Create New...