Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a boot leak down the sides of the boot from the edge of the rear window down to the tail lights. along that seem on both sides there are multiple leaks. I've reduced it with silicone to seal the gaps but still get through a little bit. I've stopped about 95% of the water.

Just wondering who i can go to for a permanent fix instead of a temporary fix. I think i have diagnosed the problem. Should i go to a panel beater or smash repair? or do i get someone to weld it?


It's not a huge problem but i can't put the interior in my boot because it gets nasty and wet.



My problem is similar to this guys video. i did the same thing as him but with a different product

Any help will be appreciated, cheers.

Edited by SkylineR33RB25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/
Share on other sites

Pull the boot rubber off the boot opening, silicon the channel and then push it back on securely

Pull the tail lights out, silicon and put back in firmly

next day hop in the boot with a torch and get some one to spray water all over the back and check for leaks

Edit: Oh and seal all rust off from the oxygen if you have any

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444434
Share on other sites

It's not coming from the rubber seal around the boot it's coming from where the metal over lays
watch the video and look at where he is putting his sealant. and it's leaking from the top. up near the windscreen down to about half way . it's def not coming from the tail lights. it's drain perfect from there.

I highlighted in red where it's leak from in paint http://postimg.org/image/ylf6uk5az/

My question is who do i go to, to get it permanently fixed?

Edited by SkylineR33RB25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444442
Share on other sites

There is a great thread about this and has helped me and multiple other people.

The seal at the base of the window. The one with screws is a culprit. Pull it off and silicone.

The tail lights leak. Pull them out and reveal.

The bolt holes for the boot. There where it mounts to the guards leak as well. Silicone all those areas and You should have solved it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444449
Share on other sites

http://postimg.org/image/ylf6uk5az

That's where it's coming from highlighted in red ^^^^ click that link
It's coming from where the metal overlays. very small gaps in there. I can see it dripping from about half way so i don't think it's as high up as the base of the window
I can see it dripping into my boot when i fill the gutters up (the side of the boot) with water. and when i soak up the water from where i highlighted in the gutters it magically stops so it has to be coming from there.


Edited by PranK
Fixed underlined text.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444456
Share on other sites

My goodness. The seems will be deceiving. It will find one point of entry and then find the path of least resistance to the exit.

Oh btw I got quoted over 1 k to get the boot welded and painted.

I guarantee that if you chisel out the old filler you will find where it enters because there will be a rust spot.

The seems are not welded. They have this type of putty filler that ages and cracks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444517
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Can someone recommend a sealant.

I currently use Silastic. silicone rubber from autobarn in a 75g tube. I need something bigger like selleys. I'm going to disconnect my boot and do it properly.

Should i use selleys silicone? Would that be the best thing for the job?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7449773
Share on other sites

The product that I have used a million times in boats of both aluminium and fibreglass is Sikaflex. Its nutso once it sets.

Note, to get it to bond well, you'll need to really scuff the paintwork, or it just wont bond properly. Hit it with a wire brush on a drill or a dremel and then apply it.

Also, Keep it dry for a few days. Rain and storms this week, it you dont have a garage then just wait.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7449893
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I get that taking off the head is best but that's a bit much for "just" valve seals. I was just under the impression that one would be able to rotate to TDC and be able to temporarily drop the valve without losing it and effectively having to remove the head to then recover it. I never knew people actually pushed rope into the cylinder to do valve seals hahaha So just to confirm, just going to TDC will not work? In that case I know when I do valve seals I'll maybe just remove the head and do some other things while I'm there, or just wait until I do an engine build.
    • The old approach was to fill the cylinder/chamber with a length of rope pushed in through the sparkplug hole. The new approach is to connect compressed air to the sparkplug hole and fill it with enough pressure to push the valves up. Doing either of these things with the head on and the engine in the car is a lot less pleasant than doing it properly.
    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
×
×
  • Create New...