Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Boot Leak

Whoa Black Boaty
 Share

Recommended Posts

Whoa Black Boaty Proficient

Whoa Black Boaty

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have a boot leak down the sides of the boot from the edge of the rear window down to the tail lights. along that seem on both sides there are multiple leaks. I've reduced it with silicone to seal the gaps but still get through a little bit. I've stopped about 95% of the water.

Just wondering who i can go to for a permanent fix instead of a temporary fix. I think i have diagnosed the problem. Should i go to a panel beater or smash repair? or do i get someone to weld it?


It's not a huge problem but i can't put the interior in my boot because it gets nasty and wet.



My problem is similar to this guys video. i did the same thing as him but with a different product

Any help will be appreciated, cheers.

Edited by SkylineR33RB25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/
Share on other sites
Sinista32 Grand Master

Sinista32

Posted
Posted (edited)

Pull the boot rubber off the boot opening, silicon the channel and then push it back on securely

Pull the tail lights out, silicon and put back in firmly

next day hop in the boot with a torch and get some one to spray water all over the back and check for leaks

Edit: Oh and seal all rust off from the oxygen if you have any

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444434
Share on other sites
Whoa Black Boaty Proficient

Whoa Black Boaty

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

It's not coming from the rubber seal around the boot it's coming from where the metal over lays
watch the video and look at where he is putting his sealant. and it's leaking from the top. up near the windscreen down to about half way . it's def not coming from the tail lights. it's drain perfect from there.

I highlighted in red where it's leak from in paint http://postimg.org/image/ylf6uk5az/

My question is who do i go to, to get it permanently fixed?

Edited by SkylineR33RB25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444442
Share on other sites
Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

There is a great thread about this and has helped me and multiple other people.

The seal at the base of the window. The one with screws is a culprit. Pull it off and silicone.

The tail lights leak. Pull them out and reveal.

The bolt holes for the boot. There where it mounts to the guards leak as well. Silicone all those areas and You should have solved it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444449
Share on other sites
Whoa Black Boaty Proficient

Whoa Black Boaty

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

http://postimg.org/image/ylf6uk5az

That's where it's coming from highlighted in red ^^^^ click that link
It's coming from where the metal overlays. very small gaps in there. I can see it dripping from about half way so i don't think it's as high up as the base of the window
I can see it dripping into my boot when i fill the gutters up (the side of the boot) with water. and when i soak up the water from where i highlighted in the gutters it magically stops so it has to be coming from there.


Edited by PranK
Fixed underlined text.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444456
Share on other sites
Hadouken Grand Master

Hadouken

Posted
Posted

My goodness. The seems will be deceiving. It will find one point of entry and then find the path of least resistance to the exit.

Oh btw I got quoted over 1 k to get the boot welded and painted.

I guarantee that if you chisel out the old filler you will find where it enters because there will be a rust spot.

The seems are not welded. They have this type of putty filler that ages and cracks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444517
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
Whoa Black Boaty Proficient

Whoa Black Boaty

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Can someone recommend a sealant.

I currently use Silastic. silicone rubber from autobarn in a 75g tube. I need something bigger like selleys. I'm going to disconnect my boot and do it properly.

Should i use selleys silicone? Would that be the best thing for the job?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7449773
Share on other sites
PranK Grand Master

PranK

Posted
Posted

The product that I have used a million times in boats of both aluminium and fibreglass is Sikaflex. Its nutso once it sets.

Note, to get it to bond well, you'll need to really scuff the paintwork, or it just wont bond properly. Hit it with a wire brush on a drill or a dremel and then apply it.

Also, Keep it dry for a few days. Rain and storms this week, it you dont have a garage then just wait.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7449893
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • joshuaho96
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      All I hear is ROADTRIP!
    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...