Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a boot leak down the sides of the boot from the edge of the rear window down to the tail lights. along that seem on both sides there are multiple leaks. I've reduced it with silicone to seal the gaps but still get through a little bit. I've stopped about 95% of the water.

Just wondering who i can go to for a permanent fix instead of a temporary fix. I think i have diagnosed the problem. Should i go to a panel beater or smash repair? or do i get someone to weld it?


It's not a huge problem but i can't put the interior in my boot because it gets nasty and wet.



My problem is similar to this guys video. i did the same thing as him but with a different product

Any help will be appreciated, cheers.

Edited by SkylineR33RB25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/
Share on other sites

Pull the boot rubber off the boot opening, silicon the channel and then push it back on securely

Pull the tail lights out, silicon and put back in firmly

next day hop in the boot with a torch and get some one to spray water all over the back and check for leaks

Edit: Oh and seal all rust off from the oxygen if you have any

Edited by Sinista32
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444434
Share on other sites

It's not coming from the rubber seal around the boot it's coming from where the metal over lays
watch the video and look at where he is putting his sealant. and it's leaking from the top. up near the windscreen down to about half way . it's def not coming from the tail lights. it's drain perfect from there.

I highlighted in red where it's leak from in paint http://postimg.org/image/ylf6uk5az/

My question is who do i go to, to get it permanently fixed?

Edited by SkylineR33RB25
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444442
Share on other sites

There is a great thread about this and has helped me and multiple other people.

The seal at the base of the window. The one with screws is a culprit. Pull it off and silicone.

The tail lights leak. Pull them out and reveal.

The bolt holes for the boot. There where it mounts to the guards leak as well. Silicone all those areas and You should have solved it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444449
Share on other sites

http://postimg.org/image/ylf6uk5az

That's where it's coming from highlighted in red ^^^^ click that link
It's coming from where the metal overlays. very small gaps in there. I can see it dripping from about half way so i don't think it's as high up as the base of the window
I can see it dripping into my boot when i fill the gutters up (the side of the boot) with water. and when i soak up the water from where i highlighted in the gutters it magically stops so it has to be coming from there.


Edited by PranK
Fixed underlined text.
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444456
Share on other sites

My goodness. The seems will be deceiving. It will find one point of entry and then find the path of least resistance to the exit.

Oh btw I got quoted over 1 k to get the boot welded and painted.

I guarantee that if you chisel out the old filler you will find where it enters because there will be a rust spot.

The seems are not welded. They have this type of putty filler that ages and cracks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7444517
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Can someone recommend a sealant.

I currently use Silastic. silicone rubber from autobarn in a 75g tube. I need something bigger like selleys. I'm going to disconnect my boot and do it properly.

Should i use selleys silicone? Would that be the best thing for the job?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7449773
Share on other sites

The product that I have used a million times in boats of both aluminium and fibreglass is Sikaflex. Its nutso once it sets.

Note, to get it to bond well, you'll need to really scuff the paintwork, or it just wont bond properly. Hit it with a wire brush on a drill or a dremel and then apply it.

Also, Keep it dry for a few days. Rain and storms this week, it you dont have a garage then just wait.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451762-r33-boot-leak/#findComment-7449893
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...