Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been on here a while, don't post very often, but lurk around.

I currently have Rays Engineering CE28N's on my 34GTT, which I believe are 18x8 and 18x9 unsure of offset.

10470912_10154206675295231_6558176008423

I am thinking about buying new wheels but I am unsure of what offset to fit, and if I can fit under the guards. I am thinking something a great deal more aggressive

Keeping in mind my guards have already been rolled, in Japan.

Was thinking of getting these Rota Grid-R's in these offsets, but perhaps there is a better suited offset on the website.

18x9.5 +18 front

18x10 +15 rears

http://www.rotawheels.com.au/wheels/rota-grid-r

Would like similar fitment to this, maybe perhaps slightly less aggressive.

JDJ4iGz.jpg

Nissan Skyline R32 fitted with ROTA Grid R 18 x 10, 5x114.3 +15 Cosmic Blue

My question is how far can I push the offsets?

Also will 18x10's fit under my R34GTT, or is that pushing it too far for the rear, and perhaps 9.5 is too much on the front also?

Cheers in advance,

Michael.

Edited by Illest
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451782-r34-gtt-wheel-offset-advice/
Share on other sites

There is a huge thread dedicated to offsets for skylines here - http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/84208-wheel-sizes-offsets-for-skylines/

But in short, the 10+15 will be too wide unless you plan on aggressively flaring your guards. The 9.5+18 will still be very aggressive, but if you want to give up some function for form, camber will make them fit. I have 9.5+20 with around -1.5deg camber on the fronts and they still poke around 10mm.

post-80854-0-51768100-1414872470_thumb.jpg

Thanks for the reply mate, I had checked out the other other forum but didn't find anything close to the specs I was looking for.

Yours sits pretty well!

9.5" will be the way to go then, with +18 or +15 offset, this whole business confuses the hell out of me.

Cheers,
Michael

Edited by Illest

Basically, the lower the offset (the +18 part), the FURTHER out the rim will sit. So if we compare 9.5+30 and 9.5+10, the +10 will sit 20mm closer to the guard than the +30.

And just to confuse you, this number is dependent on the width of the wheel - so 9.5+22 is the same as 10.5+34 (as you are adding an inch of width, the offset is 12mm higher because 1 inch = 12.7mm)

Use this website - willtheyfit.com to chose the offset right for you. There is plenty of information on that thread, you are not looking hard enough.

Thanks for the reply mate, I had checked out the other other forum but didn't find anything close to the specs I was looking for.

Yours sits pretty well!

9.5" will be the way to go then, with +18 or +15 offset, this whole business confuses the hell out of me.

Cheers,

Michael

Judging by your profile, what you want is the lowest offset with the widest wheel width, combined with the narrowest tyres size.

SO like a 185 wide tyre on a 10.5" wide wheel, because it'll match your bumhole stretch.

Judging by your profile, what you want is the lowest offset with the widest wheel width, combined with the narrowest tyres size.

SO like a 185 wide tyre on a 10.5" wide wheel, because it'll match your bumhole stretch.

Complete shot in the dark, but did/do you know someone called Micheal Tran?

Mate to start with take your current wheel off & your offset should be stamped or written on the inside and width. Then go online and find a offset calculator, it will asked you to put in your current specs then it will tell you were your new wheel specs will sit. Remember if it's not aggressive enough you can always add spacers later. But you can't go back .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...