Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

When selling a car if you're not in a rush. start high if it doesn't sell in a couple of months lower it by a couple hundred dollars. People are going to want to low ball you offers under asking price anyway. Just have patients. You don't want to lose money when selling a car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7448910
Share on other sites

Same ole thing. It's only worth what someone pays for it but...

I just recently sold my '96 R33 4door GTS25T with a few basic mods, tuned to just under 200kw.

(sounds like it may have been in better condition than yours)

$7500 with some spares and 3 months rego.

Pick a price you will not go below and try to get more. :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7448919
Share on other sites

It's only worth what someone pays for it but...

I love that saying. you didn't word it right though. take out the only

There's no rules when selling a car. try and get more money than what you bought it for and put into it so you make a profit. even if you can't sell it for profit, try and lose a less money as possible,

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7448934
Share on other sites

My guestimation would be between $3k and $8k, depending on transmission, overall condition and how quick you want to sell it

While a naturally aspirated sedan may be "rarer", it certainly isn't as in demand as a turbo coupe.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7448983
Share on other sites

I've never understood why the natos go for more than the turbos.

Fairly sure it's because there are some p platers that are so desperate to have a "cool" car that they pay ludicrous prices for a piece of crap.

It's quite hard to put a price on something you can't see. But being a '93 model and the clear going I wouldn't be willing to pay anything more than 3-5k

  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7449184
Share on other sites

Because they made a shit tone more turbos then n/as. for p platers there are so many restrictions that makes the skyline one of the best car available for the price. But when you have you're full license there is so much more variety.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7449195
Share on other sites

P-plater tax. They all want an NA so they can have the image, then they can come on here and ask what everyone thinks of them putting "these" wheels and "this" kit on it because it's the best car ever and they will "just put a DET it" when they're off their Ps since it's "just a bolt-in mod". If we're honest with ourselves most of us thought exactly the same way when we were young, and hindsight remains 20/20.

Of course, in NZ we don't have the same restrictions, and a 16yo kid with fresh L plates can go out and mod an R35 to within a bee's dick of its life and remain legal, so any Skyline is subject to "RB tax" and is worth moonbeams whether it's roadworthy or not. RB Skyline = D1NZ champion, 47 years running. Allegedly.

Edited by Hertz Donut
  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7449315
Share on other sites

You think the P Plate tax on NA skylines is bad - try buying any type R Honda. P platers flock to any Hondas, but the Type R's are particularly popular, meaning 99% of them have been modded and flogged to within an inch of their lives. Shame because they are fun little shopping trolleys.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7449408
Share on other sites

I don't believe production figures is the core of the matter.

Go on carsales and look at how many more gtst's there are compared to gts. + OP has a 4 door which you hardly ever see = rare = more money.

I've never seen production figures but i spent months waiting for a immaculate gts to turn up. It was for sale for 7 and i got 6,500 for it with warranty. when there are gtst's going for 4k or so. Yes I bought my car because it's fun to drive and i'm proud i don't own a terrible car like a holden barina like half my friends. It has more then enough power for a p plater that is still learning to drive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7449510
Share on other sites

It's school holidays again gents. :yes: Time for the annual posts.....

Considering the paint is fked. And it's a 4 door ill go with.....

4k.

If you get anything more than 5k you have ripped some poor kids asshole open.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/451970-resale-value/#findComment-7449638
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...