Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well, it's clearly not a ball joint. A balljoint is a ball in a part-spherical socket. Ball joints permit rotation movement in more than one plane whilst preventing the two parts of the joint to move apart from each other. This thing is a tapered bearing. It allows rotational movement in 1 plane. The other planes are taken care of in the other joints in the suspension.

OP, have you have re-torqued it to make sure its not just loose?

The main bloke is going to have a look at it on Monday, he was not in when his bloke did the test ?

Well, it's clearly not a ball joint. A balljoint is a ball in a part-spherical socket. Ball joints permit rotation movement in more than one plane whilst preventing the two parts of the joint to move apart from each other. This thing is a tapered bearing. It allows rotational movement in 1 plane. The other planes are taken care of in the other joints in the suspension.

I wonder why a bloke that works on cars would not know this, he may not be the boss but are the Skyline GTRs so different if you have not worked on them before?

Spent a bit of time trying to get some info off the web yesterday, I must be asking the wrong questions ???????

just loose is pretty likely, it is one place you could pull the front suspension apart to remove and reinstall the engine (to clear the driveshaft)

Don't worry about what it is called, as long as they are talking about the right joint you are fine. If you pointed out to them that it only allows movement in 1 direction they would agree it can't be called a ball joint...

BTW these very rarely fail....they are hugely over engineered for their job.

  • Like 1

just loose is pretty likely, it is one place you could pull the front suspension apart to remove and reinstall the engine (to clear the driveshaft)

Don't worry about what it is called, as long as they are talking about the right joint you are fine. If you pointed out to them that it only allows movement in 1 direction they would agree it can't be called a ball joint...

BTW these very rarely fail....they are hugely over engineered for their job.

I am really starting to think they should have had the boss have a look, maybe it is not even this part that is give the play, be interesting to see what the Bossman has to say on Monday.

But if you do not have a name for the part , it is hard to order it. Kudos said it was , see below link

King Pin Bearing Kit (1 Side) - Nissan 300ZX Z32 & Skyline R32 GTR / GTS-4, R33 GTR / GTS-4 & R34 GTR

Seems like a reasonable description, I guess they are taking the responsibility that the part is correct.

If you want me to double check the part# send me your VIN# and I will check in FAST....I guess it will be the same Zeb posted above

Seems like a reasonable description, I guess they are taking the responsibility that the part is correct.

If you want me to double check the part# send me your VIN# and I will check in FAST....I guess it will be the same Zeb posted above

Sent PM :)

You were driving it with both bearings stuffed, what was the steering like ?

You'd be surprised. You can have most of the bushes and bearings in the front end off a Skyline pretty well f**ked and barely notice anything apart from a few clunks.

Probably why did not notice it, thought it might have something to do with the way my car can tramline pretty hard at times..

Put the RD08Rs on and it seems a little better, well I will wait for another drive before I get carried away, haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hey y'all, I have a completely stock 1991 R32 GTR, yesterday I took my car out and went for about a thirty minute drive. It was fine on the way there but when returning home I think the car might have gone into a limp mode. I was cruising in 5th gear around 130km/h, the hicas light came on and there was a significant loss of power. About a minute later I hear a thump, the car starts driving normal again and is fine the rest of the drive back. This is the second time its happened, same as now it was fine on the trip there. On the way back it had the hicas light on but that time I would feel the power going in and out before hearing the same thump and it being fine.  I have no idea idea what causing this, but if anyone has any ideas it would be great as a start chasing the cause of this. Also I can provide more details if needed. Thank you
    • When sanding across a convex panel, you need to sand, as much as possible, at right angles to the curve. If the panel is compound convex curved (ie curved in both directions) then you are SOL and have to use "craftsmanship" to get it right.
    • Today in Skyline arts and crafts!! I’ve made some progress.    had to put extra notes in there so I don’t stuff it up 😂
    • This sounds like me. And then why I leave shit that I had previously hobbled together broken. Lately I've changed strategies to "If I don't want to justify the money on decent stuff, I'm not going to justify hobbling it together". I'm still for DIY, but DIY it properly is more my thing. However, I am terrible on not setting up backups still... Which reminds me, I need to go backup some of my work VM machines... Oh, it's also why I've become a lover of building things into Docker Containers... Then I just need a machine that can run docker, and bam, that specific system is up and running, on the specific versions of everything I need for it to run (In the event a change in required software version breaks something else). Also, these days, my steep learning curves are spent with work related stuff, and on very varied projects, that my want to do other random projects like build a dashboard for my own car has dwindled away to "I just want the car running", which is my current PITA, as I'm getting the Landcruiser usable again, and it has just been non-stop the past 6 to 8 weeks of buying parts, and working on it. Oh, and tools that are meant to be fit for purpose... And they break, because 25 year old 4WD decides it's stronger... But by the time I have it ready to roll back out the drive way, nearly all the stuff in it will have been touched and serviced, so the damn thing better give me NO FREAKING ISSUES, for at least the next 50,000KMs! Just redone whole front of the motor, and resealed the up top stuff, replaced a bunch of things getting perished, new timing belt done, water pump, lower timing cover (Toyota diesel engine runs timing GEARS for the bottom half the motor, and a timing belt from halfway up to the top), new harmonic balancer, fix up the alternator, new thermostat, full swivel hub rebuild, new bearings and seals front and back, steering box rebuild, new battery, and today, it turns out a rear shock has let go, so four new shocks are about to go on order, and that will leave me with after the next run of work, to see if I need to order just a brake caliper re-seal, or if I'll need new pistons in them too. Oh, and I'll finish welding in the new floor sheet metal shortly too. Presently I just want it finished already... But once all the above is done, I still need to fully service diffs, gearbox, transfer, and motor. Then flush and bleed the clutch, and flush and bleed the brakes. But enough about our waffle, back to Duncan's heat problems... I think for Duncan he just gets a thermoswitch, and a manual switch to run some water misters. Thermo so it's only on above certain temps, and the manual switch so it can be turned off even if it is above certain temperatures. IE, switch on for "I'm now on track", then it doesn't need any "smart" computers that might try and do things wrong. And switch the thing off completely on the cool down lap, so when he stops in pits, there's not even a possibility of it dripping any water out to get him in trouble.
×
×
  • Create New...