Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello Peeps,

Thanks to the community knowledge base, I have successfully got my AC working well again (9C at the vents on FC :-)), and documented the fix at the end of this link.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/199591-aircon-regassers-in-melbourne-that-use-hychill-hr12-gas/

The problem is I now have a problem with the AC fuse (which appears to power the AC electromagnet) blows after about an hour of operation.

The last time I was probably lucky that I didn't get a fire as it melted the spade fuse in the fusebox?!?

So back tot he collective. Anyone know where I might start to diagnose this?

1989 R32 GTST - Bog standard.

Thanks

Brett

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452144-ac-fuse-blowing/
Share on other sites

magnetic clutch is farked

Most likely scenario

You have the right size fuse in there? If its melting I dare say there is a fair current draw so probably right fuse if not higher.

Only thing I would suggest is meetering from one end of the circuit to the clutch to check if there is any resistance in the wire. It wont completely eliminate this but will help

Ac belt not too tight?

Not too many things it can be. Id watch the clutch when its engaged and see if its slipping. Maybe pull the belt off, engage the clutch and see if it spins ok

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452144-ac-fuse-blowing/#findComment-7452114
Share on other sites

If it consistently blows the fuse after that same time you're probably on the money with a short to ground in the mag. clutch coil.

The clutch circuitry runs from the 10A fuse to the relay then to the mag. clutch.

Lots of places for damage along the way, any of which will blow the fuse but if it's a consistent time interval, more likely to be the coil.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452144-ac-fuse-blowing/#findComment-7452131
Share on other sites

Agree with all the above. Measure the resistance of the mag clutch solenoid. On the 32 GTRs it should be 3.5 ohms, I imagine it would be the same on yours. If its much lower than 3.5 it will pull too much current and blow the fuse. When mine went I found info on here that they can be re-wound, but i just got a good second hander.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452144-ac-fuse-blowing/#findComment-7452400
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...