Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

Thought It was finally time to create a build thread for my R33 gtst as its coming along nicely and not to far off getting it out on the track for the sau championships. Hopefully for round 2 29th March.

I brought the car back in July 2014 as a unregersted stocker for $4000 with the intention on just entering a few track days here and there but that quickly has changed and now the aim is to build it up for the WTAC to compete in the open class.

post-84279-14208063234503_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208063380424_thumb.jpg

Since then I've been buying parts for it most weeks and slowly getting it closer to how I want it.

First was a set of BC ER coilovers 9kg front and 7kg rear.

post-84279-1420806451604_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208064688793_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208064892183_thumb.jpgpost-84279-142080650985_thumb.jpg

post-84279-14208066258887_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208066660171_thumb.jpg

Also went in were whiteline front and rear sway bars.

post-84279-14208069432409_thumb.jpg

Next was a set of R33 GTR wheel which I brought off another sau member.

post-84279-14208070749935_thumb.jpg

Which I decided to bring them back to life and painted them black.

post-84279-14208071679792_thumb.jpg

post-84279-14208074413859_thumb.jpg

Also brought some semi slicks to wrap them in. Brought some nitto nt01.

post-84279-14208073266436_thumb.jpg

Over the next few weeks I brought a few more go fast bits. Bpp Billet fuel rail, splitfire coilpacks, apexi power fc with hand controller, tomei fuel pressure regulator, walbro 450ltr fuel pump, Bosch 1000cc injectors, bride low max seats and a pair of D2 330mm 8pot brakes with race pads.

post-84279-14208080548781_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208080656826_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208080770801_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208080884917_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208080994456_thumb.jpgpost-84279-1420808115474_thumb.jpg

post-84279-14208090919726_thumb.jpg

Next the car was sent off to mcqueen motorsport for a full cage. Had a few hiccups there but eventually got the work done after a few months sitting at the shop. Decided on full weld in 6 point cage($2500). Also had to removed the sunroof to give me a little bit more headroom. Now left with a gapping hole in my roof which should be getting fixed in the coming weeks.

post-84279-14208088054373_thumb.jpg

post-84279-14208082666846_thumb.jpgpost-84279-1420808280969_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208082961318_thumb.jpg

Got it home and the gave it a few Coates of matte black paint.

post-84279-14208083432498_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208083545996_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208083656818_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208083760969_thumb.jpg

Got to spend some time on the car over my holidays and installed the D2 brakes.

post-84279-14208089924718_thumb.jpgpost-84279-14208090270963_thumb.jpg

Removed all the sound deadening and gave the interior a fresh coat o gloss white paint to clean the inside up a bit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/452512-wilsons-r33-gts-t-time-attack-build/
Share on other sites

Next on the to do list is find a panel shop to patch up the hole in the roof and respray the front bar. So if anyone on here knows of a good panel shop please let know.

After that is sorted the car will be sent off to racepace to get a tune with all the parts installed.

Still need to buy either garrett or Hypergear turbo which I have on my daily. Top mount 6boost manifold, plazmaman plenum.

Looks great so far. Whens the aero coming to play?

Tao does the SS2 Alpha with FNT, makes 350kw+. Though on your standard engine...not sure how far the internals go in a track day arrangement.

Most of the guys struggled to hold oil pressure over 350kw.

Before giving the front bar a tidy up, perhaps figure out what cooler mounting and ducting is needed, and whether you'll even retain the stock bar? Richo's build thread has a lot of good info/pics.

What sort of power will you chase out of this thing? I've wondered how a Hypergear TDO6SL2-20.5G would perform for a track application like this. Mightn't go much past the 300kW mark but it should be responsive and reliable unit.

Looks great so far. Whens the aero coming to play?

Tao does the SS2 Alpha with FNT, makes 350kw+. Though on your standard engine...not sure how far the internals go in a track day arrangement.

Most of the guys struggled to hold oil pressure over 350kw.

Aero shouldn't be to far off. Need to get that front bar lower and design up a front splitter. Either looking at getting a rear wing similar to yours or a decent size carbon fibre GT wing. But they are a bit pricey. Still pretty new to all the aero stuff tho.

Yeh that's the exact turbo I've been looking at from Hypergear. I've got the SS2 on my daily and have been pretty happy with it.

Before giving the front bar a tidy up, perhaps figure out what cooler mounting and ducting is needed, and whether you'll even retain the stock bar? Richo's build thread has a lot of good info/pics.

What sort of power will you chase out of this thing? I've wondered how a Hypergear TDO6SL2-20.5G would perform for a track application like this. Mightn't go much past the 300kW mark but it should be responsive and reliable unit.

Power figure I'm roughly looking at chasing atm is 300-350rwks on e85. But will most likely rebuild the engine this year to chase over the 400rwkw. Considering doing a 25/30 setup to achieve that.

  • 4 weeks later...

post-84279-14228421045287_thumb.jpg

post-84279-14228574523741_thumb.jpgpost-84279-1422857462506_thumb.jpg

post-84279-14228574719155_thumb.jpg

New engine time!!

Forged rb25/30 getting built as we speak.

Fully prepped block

Argo rods

Arais Pistons

King turbo bearings

Arp studs

Balanced and ground crank

Full reco head

Welded vct

Can't wait to drop this is in nd hit the track. Will post up more pics as the build comes along.

Edited by BLK-51N

Also decided that since I'm spending all my hard earned money on this car that it was time to insure it with Shannon's. Got a pretty good deal for an agreed value on $20,000 only $500pa. Good to have that peace of mind. Don't no what I'd do if something happened to it uninsured.

Hey well the aim is to have it fully ready with the 25/30 in it by mid year hopefully. But should have the car out on the track at sandown on the 4th of April.

Mainly just gunna enter in the sau championships and the WTAC.

Yeh for sure come in nd I'll show you around the car.

Just hanging out bad to get this ready nd out on the track. See how much power I can push out of this forged rb25/30.

Edited by BLK-51N
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...