Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 66
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Thought it was solved guess I talked to early. During a cold start the car barley wants to keep on. whole car vibrates and shutters like before. Afr/s are in the 10's and vacuum still showing single digits. I have to literally keep foot on gas pedal to get rpm's up to stop shaking slightly. After holding rpm for a minute give or take a few seconds and pedal released, idle raises and car somewhat behaves until warmed up a little. Once warm it still has a little stutter but not as bad as at idle/cold start. Car revs cleanly and during normal driving conditions vacuum is the mid to high teens, during decel vacuum is in the 20's on boost guage but when settled at idle vacuum is back to single digits.

Exhaust cam gear is advanced 6 degrees. Don t know if that is the cause of anything but would just like to give all the information about setup as I can. Also plugs are gapped extremely tight, i believe them to be about .,5mm gap.

Tuned the car a little and now running about 17 to 20psi. Boost feels to come on a bit later, but when it does car pulls like a jet plane. Its just the idle leaves much to be desired at cold start when warmed sometimes it seems to drop a cylinder and idle raises and holds to above 1100 but that's only after boosting and I blame that on the mixture of methanol and fuel as i have meth injection. My water temps have also increased to like 102 degrees Celsius just idle and normal driving from about 95/98c driving under boost on hot days and no matter what i do they do not drop. I have a dual core aluminum radiator with a shroud and two ten inch fans running off a thermostat and a nismo cooler theromstat. The system is filled with a full coolant mix and a 50/50 premix.

Do you think the exhaust cam advance or installation of the new cams has anything to do with the increase in temp? Also why is idle vacuum so low? While driving under vacuum it seems normal and also on decel, but at idle its in the single digits. Not saying its wrong just would like to know if it is normal.

Edited by Daboss

It looks like one is switched on all the time, the other is switched off all the time. The point where they cross would be the approx best point for switching between on and off.

Correct. That was just to show the internal feed works final tune is different to that

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...