Jump to content
SAU Community

Oops - I Been Stoopid - Anybody Fancy A Trip To Homebush Pleez


lesleyjill
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi folks I've been lurking her for a while coz I wanted a Stagea and been very impressed with the community spirit here.

Now I've put a deposit on this sight unseen (it's in Sydney and I'm in Adelaide) :stupid:

Done 167,000km but I figured I'd be OK coz it came with a nationwide warranty but I've since discovered that it ain't worth the paper it's written on.

Also found the dealer has told me a lot of porkies and refuses to give my deposit back ("car has been sent offsite for detailing - too hard to refund blah blah) so now I'm shi***ing myself please pardon my French, and am worried about driving it back to SA.

I've thought of forking out more $$$ for a NRMA inspection but then I thought I'd rather pay a Stagea guru.

Happy to pay someone who knows what they're doing - and it looks like there's a lot of you out there.

All advice gratefully received.

The vin is wrong in the ad - it's 6U9000WGC34083929 it checks out OK (4 owners since imported in 2006 no writeoffs - rego till 7/15)

Also if anyone fancies a road trip to Adelaide I'll pay expenses and fly you back.

Thanks in advance everyone ! :teehee:

my poor old dad is rolling in his grave!! - we spent hours looking at used cars when I was a kid and he always said never trust a dealer
SORRY DAD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you prove they have lied to you?

If they've lied to you to get you to buy the car, then you have every right to get your money back. Being a business, they're bound by legislation to be up front and honest when describing the goods to you. That's why there's a 3 month stat warranty on used cars bought from a dealer. Used cars must be sold as "fit for purpose".

Don't let them railroad you.

Having said that, you need to have a better reason to pull out of the purchase than buyer's remorse.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Can you prove they have lied to you?

If they've lied to you to get you to buy the car, then you have every right to get your money back. Being a business, they're bound by legislation to be up front and honest when describing the goods to you. That's why there's a 3 month stat warranty on used cars bought from a dealer. Used cars must be sold as "fit for purpose".

Don't let them railroad you.

Having said that, you need to have a better reason to pull out of the purchase than buyer's remorse.

I could be wrong, but I believe the 3 month Stat warranty is onky for cars under 10 years old.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just out of curiosity mate, but what "porkies" do you mean?

I got burnt buying a 2004 BA Falcon from a dealer a few years ago. A split in the radiator meant the trans flooded within a month or two of buying it. Due to the age of the car and km's, it is "not" subject to a statutory warranty (a car has to be less than 10 years old, and done less then 150k (?) kms to be subject to one.)

I had to write a letter saying that "if I knew what was wrong with the car at the time of buying it, or how much extra it would have cost me, I would not have bought it in the first place". That is the only way to get out of any warranty. Also, that the issue was already wrong with the car at the time of purchase.

When I mentioned legal action if my car wasn't refunded or repaired, he had no hesitation in repairing it. The repair bill came to over $3000, not including close to $1200 I spent servicing it and trying to clear the error codes...

All warranties are not worth the paper they are written on.

It looks like a fairly clean car though, so what seems to be the issue?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks pretty good in the pics. Is there a commercial inspection service available? I can understand members not wanting to be responsible for your purchase. Would be good to get it road tested and look for evidence of crash repair or respray. At that price and mileage I would get someone to do a cambelt and water pump and check all the belts and hoses - the turbo's days could be numbered but the price looks ok.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you haven't taken delivery of the car, they cannot refuse refund your deposit.

As yet, they have not provided any kind of service to you. You may walk away from the sale at any point up until the final step. If you have signed no document authorising them to spend money on the vehicle prior to the purchase; all you have paid is a HOLDING DEPOSIT.

Get in touch with fair trading; what they are trying to do is theft.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks y'all - appreciate your input.

I mentioned Fairtrading to the dealer and he wasn't perturbed at all - my word against his I suppose re "misrepresentation", and I gather they're a bit toothless. Josh is right - no stat warranty if over 10 years old.

Bob that's a good point about members not wanting to be responsible - reckon I'll bite the bullet and get an NRMA inspection.

Not much in Adelaide under $8k so I guess even if I'm faced with $2-3k repairs it's not too tragic (and I do like the leather and the "walnut" :cool: )

I asked them about the timing belt and they reckon it was done at 150k. Took them a day to email receipt - it's from the place across the road and is a curious document - apart from the "tans fluid" and the "collant flush" - supply and fit timing belt for $350? or am just getting paranoid now? I attach it anyway in case anyone's interested...

post-138393-0-44526300-1421053269_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

LOL Mate,

I have strong doubts about that receipt considering the E-mail address is not even typed up properly.

Depending on the size of the deposit you made I think you should cut your losses just slightly,

I'm going to plug my own car here but I have a Pearl White Stagea for sale as well and it even has a Liquid Injection System.

I guarantee this will get you to Adelaide safe & sound (maybe a punctured tyre, but nothing more!)

I've driven it to Gold Coast & Canberra plenty of times with no worries ! PM me if this is something you may be interested in !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I mentioned Fairtrading to the dealer and he wasn't perturbed at all - my word against his I suppose re "misrepresentation",

Call them, don't just mention them. have a discussion about everything that happened in full and honestly and get their guidance.

make a decision from there.

do you have a used vehicle contract with anything incorrect or misleading on it? do you have any email correspondents which have misleading information on them?

these will be the reason to cancel a contract easily.

also .. forget warranty on our old imports, realistically its just something you need to understand that grey imports your on your own.

Edited by GH05T
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share



  • Latest Posts

    • You have your numbers back to front. 350mm from wheel centre to guard lip would be scrapinly low and the suspension arms would be at spastic angles and it would have the road manners of a meth affected giraffe. You can down to ~450mm (from larger stock starting values about 50ish mm higher than that) before you start to create to many problems.
    • I think last I checked it was 35cm from fender to wheel center. I heard u can go up to 45-48cm before handling his impacted. But I need to check again. I know I was about 1.2 cm off being close to max recommended. 
    • You'd need to weld on an external gate to achieve that number though. I can't remember seeing anyone make 500hp at the wheels with the stock manifold / internally gated turbo.
    • Suspension Component Question Looking for some feedback based on people's experiences! I know this has been loosely covered in other threads but I can't find any direct answers/experience. I'm up for some bush/rod replacements and was interested in a hybrid approach between hardened rubber and pillowball kit. Why not choose one or the other? Well, this is for my daily driver, which I track once or twice a year. I like a stiff car and a sporty feel but I don't want to compromise the chassis too much with 100% pillowball gadgetry.  I know from experience and a tonne of reading that not all components affect ride quality in the same way - eg. in my case, coilover top mounts should be hardened rubber as pillowball transfers way too many undesirable qualities and doesn't have much more upside than a good hardened rubber. But, pillowball tension rods translate to much better turn-in/steering response and make the car significantly sharper, without negatively impacting ride quality in a significant way.  I'm not TOO bothered by NVH (to a degree). So, with context out of the way, does anyone have any experience with a hybrid approach as mentioned above? I'm going to replace all components over time so am seeking guidance on: - front tension rods - upper camber arms - rear lower control arm - rear traction rod - rear upper camber arm - rear toe adjuster rod  Secondly, is there any reason why this is a bad idea? Or any other info/wisdom that I might not be considering. Cheers 🫶
    • That's good to hear I'll stick with the stock I hear they are good for 500hp and I'm only shooting for 350-400 once I can get this thing sorted and get to actually building it. 
×
×
  • Create New...