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Putting In New Spark Plugs. Ngk? Gap To What?

glaze

By glaze,
in General Maintenance

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pol1on1 Mentor

pol1on1

Posted
Posted

Also I found this from NGK pdf file.

Using anti-seize on spark plugs will do the following:

Alters the tightening torque by up to 20% which may cause over-tightening (or breaking the spark bolt)

Reduces electrical ground contact if the anti-seize is non-conductive or semi-conductive

Isolates more heat into the spark plug therefore causing the plug to increase the heat range above specification (can cause detonation/pre-ignition)

The thing with NGK plugs is that they are already self-lubricating and corrosion resistant. They have to be installed dry. Never put anti-seize on them.

Remember to check the gap!

And CORRECT TORQUE !

https://www.google.com.au/url?q=http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf&sa=U&ei=rv1OVYmzNZD98QXKjoDIAQ&ved=0CAsQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNEpns05Q0jxFEOWvviPoR09Z_JXKQ

pol1on1 Mentor

pol1on1

Posted
Posted

Bullshit anti seaze will insulate the plug.

Against heaps of pressure, no way.

Give me an example of when that's happened.

Hi Ben can be more specific with your quote I'm having trouble understanding witch side you coming from..... or I've had too many beers hehe
jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

What about the shoulder of the plug?

Threads could be fully insulated but the shoulder/seal washer are going to conduct power for the ground.

But forums are great places for tossing around thoughts, so each to his own.

I like my match stick dob of nickel never seize on plug threads. (certainly not excessive amounts)

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Hi Ben can be more specific with your quote I'm having trouble understanding witch side you coming from..... or I've had too many beers hehe

I'm very skeptical that you could ever put enough anti seaze to insulate the sparkplug.

When doing up the thread it will be squeezed out from the contacting surfaces of the thread, and like jiffo said the face if the plug will make contact.

As far as the torque issue, its not a critical item like head bolts.

If you decide to use a torque wrench, that's cool, and as mentioned using a lubricant does change the torque, but in reality its not that hard to do the plugs up correctly by hand. Which I will continue to do.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I always use anti-seize on stainless plug threads, I have had too many get stuck in the head. No need for it with NGK's.

As for tightening the plugs, I never use the torque method, just the half turn after the crush washer seats.

pol1on1 Mentor

pol1on1

Posted
Posted

What about the shoulder of the plug?

Ok none of the leading brands NGK Bosch recommend putting anti-seize or oil on the plugs so why would you even when they give you reasons why not too......

My thoughts are how can you be sure that the wash, seal, gasket, will be substantial amount contact all you need is a bit of gunk on the face where the gasket will sit for it not to conduct. The thread is there to do 2 jobs conduct and hold in place.

Also you know that loctite silver anti-seize is made for aluminium not the nickel. Your better off using graphite 50 anti-seize from loctite.

But your choice.......

http://www.loctite.com.au/lubrication-anti-seize-4096.htm

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Ok none of the leading brands NGK Bosch recommend putting anti-seize or oil on the plugs so why would you even when they give you reasons why not too......

Bosch are the ones using shitty Stainless in alloy heads, and I really don't like using breaker bars on plugs. Try it on a long thread VQ plug, it's not fun.

I will keep doing what works for me, thanks anyway.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

If you were building an F1 engine or something tuned to the Nth degree, perhaps some of this argument would be valid, but certainly not here.

Getting worked up over very little.

For starters the quality control on sparklers is practically non existent.

Had a Repco spark plug cleaner/testing machine, nobody bothers these days as plugs are so cheap.

But your old plug would get a grit blast in one section of the machine, then you'd gap the plug, install it in the test section and start building air pressure all the while watching the spark through a window into the pressure chamber.

Very rare for any plug, new or used, to keep consistently sparking over 120psi. Push the pressure to 150 and the spark became very sporadic. Obviously the spark generator wasn't up to that produced by today's electronic ignition systems but the exercise showed the poor quality control of brand new plugs. It always took a lot of plug testing to end up with a decent set.

To me this also showed the benefit as much IGN advance as possible.

The more IGN advance, the lower the cylinder pressure.

Every bit helps and another reason I'm a big fan of W/M as you can add so much IGN timing.

But I digress.

The spark from your coil pack arrives at the electrode via a puny spring with a fraction of the cross sectional area compared to that of the plug's shoulder against the head.

An interesting discussion all the same.

pol1on1 Mentor

pol1on1

Posted
Posted

Nah I'm not getting worked up.

I just couldn't believe that normal nickel or copper based anti-seize would be used

If you going to use it. Use the one that's compatible with alloy head and that's got a good electrical conducting properties.

That's all :D

And depending on what lengths you love ya skyline I would spark test 4 dozen to get the right set if I had the money :)

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Seriously if you think a thin smear of antiseize on the thread will insulate the earth from the plug you have been eating too much of it, but like I said with stainless threads you are mad not to lubricate it with something... Or just not use shitty Bosch plugs.

jiffo Mentor

jiffo

Posted
Posted

The high volts and amps of your IGN won't have much trouble with a wipe of never seize.

It's when you're talking milliamps that this is a concern although I've seen anodes fizzing while the operator hit the press-to-transmit button on his HF.

When I built my boat I bolted on the anodes. (usual practice is to weld them)

Things went well for many years, zero electrolysis then during one slip I decided to give the bolts a wipe with an Epicraft product, can't remember its name, but it was like green toothpaste and was brilliant at eliminating corrosion between dissimilar metals.

Well at next slip my anodes were still perfect, hadn't done a fart of good and the prop was yum, yum, yum.

Lesson learnt.

post-73571-0-11889100-1431306630_thumb.jpg

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