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Booked into Paul Pavlou motors today for its major service and check over,
im assuming all is ok bar a few issues i want checked out

-car has a 900 idle on start and 1200 idle when warm, hopefully this is just an idle screw adjustment,
-rotational squeak with idle, assuming a belt or the likes
-diff clunk.. hopefully not diff center
-timing belt im assuming needs replacing but needs checking

-general servicing.

hoping no skeletons i didn't see don't jump out on me now.

OK damage report...

good news car is mostly all good mechanically.

-replaced oils with 10/40 valvoline VR1 after a flush
-replaced all filters and other fluids,
-replaced some hoses including 2 coolant lines which were weeping at the clamps and flushed the cooling system, pressure tested and new coolant.
-new battery as the old had dropped a cell

belts have not been done so we did:
-ac/ps belts.
i have not yet done the timing belt, it needs doing but seems to visually be ok for now, not cracked ect.
-brakes are new, bearings are all good, no broken boots ect and engine checked out all fine generally so im happy.

-The rear diff clunk is a worn diff bush so that has been added to the list f next to be done.
-swaybar Dlink bushes/ rod bush and front suspension bush all worn so they will be attended to soon. I will probably look into new coilovers, swaybars and general bush replacement together at some point so i can set them up together with the alignment.

tires are nackered which was obvious on sale, also shit mismatched anyway.
tisk tisk.
still handles surprisingly well on such bad rubber other than the whiring road noise.
not sure if i should buy decent tires for the 17' Enkies which are on there or just spend some more coin and just get new 18x9.5 (or 10) +15ish wheels and get tires for them... hardest part is choosing a wheel.

im thinking enkei rpf1 in silver for a clean not over the top look which i think suits the 32
rpf1_silver.jpg

fronts
20150120_160221_zpsk0i0ye2z.jpg
rears
20150118_111825_zpsbjojguiy.jpg

another annoyance is the HICAS warning light coming on after 15 mins of driving, the battery didnt fix the issue being low, replacing the steering fluid did not solve it, im pointing my finger at the tires, tbh i will probably just pull it and and lock it if the tires dont fix the issue. the only reason i would keep it is for legalities, otherwise ill save the weight and future issues.

20150118_111807_zpsemwsrsfn.jpg



The high idle we will also address soon.

the idle screw is all the way in so cant rely on that.
the throttle body seal is still ok, no one has tried cleaning it out thank god
were assuming we can tackle it by adjusting the physical linkages?

my next step for now then is to replace the timing belt and were blaming the rotational idle squeak on a belt tensioner being too tight or just worn so we will replace them with a full kit, why not when were in there.

at this time we will play with the throttle linkages and reset the idle and pop it on the rollers to see what it base power output is.
more than likely we will up the boost to roughly 10psi (or wherever the car is happiest) with a ball and spring boost T and re-dyno to get the power output and leave it there for now.
might look into a eboost street 2 or something but realistically its overkill for such low boost?

hope to get this done maby next week.

i don't think i'm forgetting anything..



Edited by GH05T

also would like to say that thy guys at Pavlou's are very good guys to deal with. I have used them for some big $5k -> $30k v8 jobs through work, but first time using them on my older personal vehicles.
very knowledgeable and upfront without charging like a bull. can recommend them so far.

also the cars they get in there are worth going in just to see. they have a very wealthy client basis.
on the day
-crazy 280Z
-worked mini cooper
-3 big block mopar yank tanks
-worked vf gts
-couple of senators/ r8 clubbies
-corvette
-gt40 rep
-caterham
to spot a few.

  • Like 1

Chears Tim,

If the new tires dont fix the issue, i don't intend on chasing the issue down on such an antiquated steering component, so i may hit you up for them.

edit* ... ok had to google them, obviously a bit different to a lock bar, do they just replace the arms? cant quite work out how they work.

edit** ...ok another quick search and found some more info,
http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281675-complete-r34-gt-r-hicas-removal/


Ok, so unlike a full bar they bolt to the original mounts separately?... how much do you want for them? pm me.

Edited by GH05T

Yeah they are a bit different to a lock bar and there are cheaper alternatives out there, but obviously yhe Midori Seibi gear is very high quality.

20150110_092447_zpsfmjcbopt.jpg

I think there is an image of them fitted up in my build thread.

well done on your purchase

i have a 32GTR also that i am restoring

Regarding your HICAS issue - sounds very similar to the issue i had. Do you have an aftermarket steering wheel by any chance? If so you may have the wrong boss kit which is incompatible with the hicas clock behind your steering wheel

In my case fitting the correct boss kit and aligning the steering wheel and hicas clock correctly fixed my issue. My HICAS light would come on exactly after 10kms of driving on the freeway

Jase

Congrats! looks like a clean and awesome base to start with.

There is some great info by SydneyKid and others on re-routing the power steering through the cooler in order to remove all the HICAS lines properly here:
http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410492-r32-hicas-removal/

Tut which uses the same/similar theory here: http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/410492-r32-hicas-removal/

Should come in handy regardless of which route you decide to take (Lock bar/Midori)

Looking forward to the updates :yes:

  • Like 1

could not stand the yellow headlights.
i have generally always ran HID kits 4000-6000 in my cars (yes i know illegal and so on) but i really like a bright white output, problem is i usually had projectors, the gtr has N1 headlights.

HIDs work really well with the output but are an issue for on coming blinding so i will probably not use HID's

i have gone for the best i could find for stock replacements with the philips 4300k
(stock bulbs pictured in the box)
20150120_160528_zpswssgvyjt.jpg

although they are marginally brighter there still too yellow for me :(
Drivers side is the phillips, passenger is the stock

20150118_103527_zpsqx9p52hv.jpg

20150118_103546_zpsgj7c4ij7.jpg20150118_103534_zpsx1iqaw6v.jpg

so i dont know what to do now. thinking i might have to try out a HID kit and see how well i can adjust it.

thoughts on going hid? anyone with N1 lights used them with out trouble?

yeah, flick me a pic of their color output, and did you get allot more light over the stock bulbs?

my other option is to beef up the wiring/relays and get higher watt bulbs i guess.


had a friend of a friend pop over to my work in his free time who works in vehicle electronics. champ reprogrammed my security system. the car came with a very good system installed but i had no idea how to use it and i failed at trying to download the manuals online.

-car now has remote start amongst a few other little features like windo rolldown ect.
still needs a valet switch replaced aswell as a neutral switch for the remote start. atm if its left in gear and started... it will crank until it starts which means if it gets enough torque it will hit something... haha.. not ideal.

car also came with push button start.
buttons a bit red... but i kinda like it, might see if i can find a black or clear button.
other killswitch devices installed too ;)
20150120_155202_zpsdu4aiu4v.jpg


hes gonna help me out with the rest of the sound system at some point.

this is how it looks atm...
again tisk tisk

20150120_160321_zpsuaew2beb.jpg

One good thing was the seller for free gave me a 10" pioneer sub in a box. i think ill take it out of its ported box and fit it to a small sealed box. i like bass but i like base to be punchy and very crisp. it should complement good speakers instead of rattle the boot.
no idea on the amp but will probably reuse. that wiring needs to go though, amazed nothing has shorted.

one thing i do like is the re done parcel shelf. good colour, good material and a very well done yet subtle GTR logo embossed.
ignore the shitty speakers. they will be replaced with something higher quality and less..... spikey :P

20150120_155349_zpsyq4ler1y.jpg


SHIT the windows were grubby!

20150120_155250_zpsr6tcn4xb.jpg

its had tint at some point and removed poorly, took allot of work to get the windows back to being clear. will need to pull the parcel shelf out to clean properly but that needs to happen for the sound system anyway.

also the back seat needs to come out regardless.... but more on that soon......



Edited by GH05T

Sorry don't have pics of the HIDs on. I have a few pissed off friends from driving behind them and absolutely blinding them.

As for buttons check this one out. I like it because it's flat and changes colour when on/off. Blue is off

First pic is when I was having the car painted - so dirty on the inside :(

This button switch is for 4WD to 2WD

(that's the old steering wheel)

Edited by Sinista32

yeah thats cool.

also ordered that white LED dash cluster, Ac and center gauge kit... should get here soon.
had them in my last 32, such a better look for the gauges.

Edited by GH05T

yeah its a bit poke.

for LED kits pm elrodeo666, he took over from Dan666

hes hooked me up with some good prices. I've used dan666 kits (im assume they haven't changed) in my last 32, looked like this irl,

interiordial_3.jpginteriordial_6.jpg

Looks quite nice, im starting to get old enough I appreciate the retro style of keeping someone original even if it does look as good.

I was trawling the cars for sale and I notice you posted on quite a few r32 gtr for sale threads before you got this one. Congrats on finally having her in the garage

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