Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

I have a front mount return flow intercooler on my r32 GTS-T. It came with the car and I do not know the maker. It is not as big as a regular front mount intercooler.

What hp are return flow front mount intercoolers generally good for? My goal is 400 hp for my car.

It depends on the brand and design obviously, can you post a pic? Should be good for 300kw or so, if it doesn't make it to your goal, change it then?

It depends on the brand and design obviously, can you post a pic? Should be good for 300kw or so, if it doesn't make it to your goal, change it then?

Hello

Dont know how to post a pic, tried to link my Facebook but doesnt work.

Some of them do restrict flow, that causes a massive differences before and after the cooler. It depends on the amount of boost you wish to run also. For the best result always get proper front mount cooler with 600x300x100mm core.

I'm making 300wkw from the stock evo 7 cooler, and 350awkw through the Stagea auto on a cut down Jap core 600x220x76. Obviously you can get better results the larger you go, especially if the cooler pipes are large diameter, but there is a price to pay, and transient response will suffer. Peak KW is only part of the story.

If you plan to lean on the car hard, such as dyno and track work, go for the largest and thickest cooler you can fit without cutting bits of the car off. Otherwise you would be better off keeping what you have for the road most likely, best bang for buck I say...

Should be, but like I said, it's hard to say without seeing a pic, even then we are only guessing.

Ok I think this should work.

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=10203704850013121&set=pb.1573802608.-2207520000.1424919624.&type=3&theater

Here is a link to a picture of the car and intercooler.

post-134327-0-42189300-1424920494_thumb.jpg

Edited by yoshiii335

1. Put it on your computer and attach it to your post

or

2. Open e.g. a photobucket account (free) put it on there and then cut and paste the link

Does it have a brand name on it?

1. Put it on your computer and attach it to your post

or

2. Open e.g. a photobucket account (free) put it on there and then cut and paste the link

Does it have a brand name on it?

Thanks

I found a way to link my FB picture of it.

It does not have a name on it. Dont know it has worn off or not.

post-134327-0-51958600-1424920546_thumb.jpg

Edited by yoshiii335

Some of them do restrict flow, that causes a massive differences before and after the cooler. It depends on the amount of boost you wish to run also. For the best result always get proper front mount cooler with 600x300x100mm core.

What brands do you find to be restrictive Stao?

1. Put it on your computer and attach it to your post

or

2. Open e.g. a photobucket account (free) put it on there and then cut and paste the link

Does it have a brand name on it?

Picture is posted

What brands do you find to be restrictive Stao?

Some of the JJR ones, and also Blitz. For this reason I've installed a blitz return flow on my current R34 and curious to see what it does. I've noticed some of the blitz coolers has very narrow tube, mine doesn't, but it has very tightly packed fins inside those tubes.

I've done a test based on 600x300x68mm and 600x300x100mm coolers. There are no differences in response, while the IT was 10 degrees less with the 100mm, that lead to 10kws gain top end. For a cooler setup that what I recommend.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...