Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Id recommend taking the head off to save dropping a valve then having to do it anyway

This tool probably gets around this issue (dont know how it works really) but it only takes one step out of order or a quick bump etc and youll be valve fishing

I dont think its a good idea to do it with the head on with an rb because of how recessed in the head everything is. Not like a traditional rocker style setup where everything sits up higher in the head

You won't drop a valve into the engine if you pressurize the cylinder with air and have the piston at tdc. That kit has the line to pressurise the cylindr. Usualy inly 20psi is required. If it does drop due to losing air pressure etc you can lift it up again no worries with a magnet.

Having said that I don't think it would work on an rb due to the layout of the head. Why not use those hammer jobs that remove the collets? They rule.

Edited by Ben C34

For an RB sytyle you need those round tools that you press onto the retainer and magnets in the tool grab the coolers ive used that for when doing it with head on but even that tool you will need to slightly mod it as the diameter is a little to big.

Ahh yes of course. Air pressure in the cylinder. I remember now

Ive pulled a head apart out of the car at a engine shop and it was enough of a pain in the ass. Personally I wouldnt do it, id use it as an excuse to freshen upsome gaskets and clean some things up, but thats just me. Some people just want to do the job that needs to be done which is understandable

  • Like 1

Thanks for the replies guys.

Keeping the valve in place is no issue, TDC and an air compressor will work perfectly. You can also feed some rope into the bore to fill up the empty space if needed.

Removing the Valve Springs is not so much the issue, but fitting the new stronger Springs will be. Especially when trying with the "Hammer" style i.e.

49889.JPG

Trying to push the stronger Springs down by had with that ^^^ will be a pain in the arse!

With double valve springs ive used a piece of pipe to add leverage to the arm to help push the spring lower.

Yes air and piston at TDC is the best way.

Removing the springs you wont need the tool, a well placed whack square onto a socket on the retainer is all it takes to have it all come appart.

I have seen some great tools for compressing the new springs to fit the retainers, most of the tools are model specific though, as they bolt to the cam journals. You could easily make something that would do the job I think, RB's are pretty easy to work on compared to some of the euro heads I have seen it done on.

Those Snap On valve collet remove/replace tools you've shown are the go.

Don't go feeding rope etc down the bore, just set her at TDC for each PAIR of cylinders you're working on.

Be sure to lock the crank, it will spin off TDC otherwise.

Take lots of care, no collets down oil drain holes or valve springs shot off into space.

Old valve stem seals tend to disintegrate too so watch that gunge.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...