Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey mate,

i am having this same problem, also using shit tons of fuel(roughly 200km to a tank). my car needs the o2 sensor replaced. i have ordered it from nissan and will let you know how it goes fixing it.

my car blows fuel smoke on full throttle. the idle likes to wander from 800 to 500. and when it goes to 500 it sounds like it's missing.

my stag was never good on fuel from the day i bought it. and only threw the o2 sensor code, 6 months after i bought it.

will keep you informed

Where are you djtee? There is something seriously wrong with your car for it to be going through that much fuel, I doubt the o2 sensor will be the only issue, as the rich running will have ruined it. Could be worth sticking the Consult 3 on it.

Where are you djtee? There is something seriously wrong with your car for it to be going through that much fuel, I doubt the o2 sensor will be the only issue, as the rich running will have ruined it. Could be worth sticking the Consult 3 on it.

im in sydney mate, i purchased one of your afm's about 3 months ago.

i've had it plugged into a diagnostic computer, and all it came up with was the o2 secsor, it wasn't giving any signal at all...

today i checked for airleaks/broken airlines to the fuel regulator, but it was all sealed nicely.

Hi guys,

well i ripped the cat out out the dump pipe and fuel economy has returned to normal, still have a bit of a rough idle but the power down has returned and driving great again, im not sure what i would have to do to correct the idle but i am happy that the car is back to normal driving if not better!

only thing i can think of is replacing the o2 sensor. might try that soon.

thanks heaps Scotty!

I hope this cant help other people, and i would recommend getting rid of that constrictive front dump/cat!

  • 2 years later...

I am having a similar issue, but it's only missing under load.  When it starts making boost, it seems that it starts to have a miss.

The interesting thing is I ended up getting a fault code a couple of times indicating a coil issue before this missing under load started, which I have cleared, reset, dropped the power from the battery and everything goes back to normal.  The coil issue would only happen after leaving the car for a while, starting and then it would run rough (like one cylinder was down), then all of a sudden come good, but the engine check light would come up.

  • 1 year later...

I'm still having this issue.  I've checked all the plugs, replaced all the coils (thinking it was a bad coil and I had done 150K on them...)

For some reason it's an intermittent fault.  It happens when the car is idling (cold), feels like it's missing, but it's not regular.  Then under full throttle (so boost) it will miss regularly.  No fault codes, no engine light.

 

Does anyone have any thoughts?

I've had a bit of trouble with old and hardened manifold vac/boost hoses blowing off under boost. Last one was difficult to spot since the fuel rail (fuel pressure regulator) end had come off. I now know what to look for when the idle goes a bit wonky... but it shouldnt happen now that the bad hoses have been replaced.

You could start the motor and remove the non-manifold end of each hose one at a time. Block the end with your thumb to verify there's vacuum and that the idle changes. If you have a vacuum gauge check what the manifold has at idle.

 

Heya Stabby man.  Yes, your thought process is along mine aswell. I thought it was a vacuum leak somewhere initially, and found a hose that I thought was causing the problem that was going to the OEM ECU boost sensor, but after replacing said tube, the issue is still there.

Now working with my local trusted mechanic, I have had plugs replaced , the issue still exists.  I am currently using 'Hanshin' coils from Ebay (supposedly the same as OEM...) and currently suspect these may be causing the issue.

Does anyone have a cheap way of buying OEM Nissan coils.  Currently Kudos Motorsport have them for $136.40 (NIS-22448-AL61C)

The frustrating thing with this is it's intermittent. The car will idle fine, but then all of a sudden miss and stumble.  The only reliable thing is when it's under load it will miss.  Thinking this is coils currently.

Mine would idle ok when cold, and when hot it would idle for a short time ok, then get rough. With RB motors i've heard of circumstances where the coilpacks get marginal when they're hot. Havent heard of that with VQ coils but it could be a thing.

Oh - the other issue i noticed when there was a vac leak was that both fuel trims would max out (one at +25% and the other at +10%). info  https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280322-m35-obd2-or-is-it/page/4/#comments

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...