Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys. If you guys can remember I had built a r32 gts4 and crashed it some time back, and for those who have been following I got me a very clean r32 gtr that was garage kept for a little while like 8 years because the motor was blow. It was perfect. Me and a friend who has been coming around for a while from most projects started at it again. We decided to do a couple of things. First was to strip the existing chasis and paint everything. We were shocked at how clean the car was as we were doing so. And even went further with the painting and the inspection of components. We took everthing out the engine bay box and all strip the under carage and moved on to take the rear bumper off and strip the trunk clean. Painted and clear coated the whole thing with matching silver paint. In my head it was mostly for protection reasons as the car didnt seem to even have one ounce of rust. We decided to start amd swap the motor into this new body. And if you can remember the motor was fully built and good for around 800hp easily, but im looking for only 600. A few things thats different this time was our custom intercooler, we will run a bit of NOS. ( not installed as yet) haltech PS2000 ecu. Bigger injectors and a total different fuel system including an accusump setup with 3 bosch 044 pump with cell and surge tank along with a fuel cooler. The system is a bit overkill but I may go with e85 a bit later. I also did a few custome parts of the car myself like gauge pod. Center switch console, chassis brace bar behind the two front seat. We are still working on the fuel system as we speak and keeping in mind that I will send this car to the states for a full tune as its for drag racing only. this time around we installed a front and rear lsd. Which I hope will not be a waist of money. I will also use a set of front and rear diffuser. Its by no means a full drag car but will be used for it only. At other times it will have to sit in my shops show room floor. Im waiting on my new rims also to arrive as Work takes like 3 months to have them built and shipped (Meisters S1 3 peace). I would like to say thanks to all the peopel that has supported me from day one to the ones that still do. Cheers mate.

post-37293-14260505811005_thumb.jpg

post-37293-1426050625924_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260506458854_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260506827189_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260507084507_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260507415715_thumb.jpg

post-37293-1426050769134_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260507880718_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260508262168_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260508588075_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260508857675_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260509071396_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260509416799_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260509614597_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260510047105_thumb.jpg

post-37293-14260510362201_thumb.jpg

Edited by MJTru
  • Like 1

:lol::lol::lol: kml. Mate I was thinking the same thing. I have a r33 gtr and that has to this day hold my position at the tracks. This r33 is screaming for fuel to do better. But it hasnt lost a race as yet. So I know hands down this 32 tuned right will deal with my problems and then get stored away. My r33 took down well tuned 600hp supras. But I feels im in for an awakening this year so im getting ready. Thanks you were a big help mate.

How much is it going to cost to take the car to a tuner? I know at least three tuners who go to the Islands and South Africa to tune cars and I am sure would travel to Miami if you have access to a dyno.!!

Well shipping cost will be around 1500 usd round trip. My only issue would be a tuner thats familiar with the PS2000. ecu. BUT the shipping may be cheaper as a new ship is being commissioned in the next month. That would be around 700 round trip. You can pm me there info and I can consider them. But if I had known that MY PS2000 was so Australia based I wouldn't have gotten it. See how much I love you guys engineering skills. :D

Edited by MJTru

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Give it a clean up with some Emery paper, and I'd run a thread die over the threads too to clean them up. It will make reinstall much easier, and also life easier for the next time it needs to come out.
    • I'm not a fan of high humidity, it's one reason I don't mind being further inland out Ipswich, except the last 3 odd years, the drought broke, and it won't stop raining, which is making the humidity nearly unbearable when the rains are in during summer! For me, my body hates the cold, once the cold sets into my body, I'm totally screwed. I end up with severe muscle spasm in my back/shoulder muscles, and it feels like someone is trying to tear the muscles out. I have no issues with it getting stupid hot, so long as the humidity goes away. So the last 3 years as above, have been woeful! Ha ha. However, June 1st, and I'm only just converting from shorts and a tee, to long pants and a t shirt. And that's mainly as it's a bit wet and miserable and I wanted to work on a car.
    • I much prefer colder weather to hot weather, and especially prefer cold to hot and humid, Goulburn does gets pretty warm in the hotter months, but, I've found the humidity there is not as painful as even Sydney, the humidity up north is to oppressing for this old rooster  In saying this, it does get rather "nippy" in Goulburn for early morning, late in the evening walks, but nothing that a layer or two, some thermal gloves, and a beanie doesn't fix to make it an enjoyable experience, which is much more bearable to me than the oppression of heat and humidity,  especially at night when your trying to sleep If I recall correctly, a "wise man" once said that the "Southern Tablelands" was gods country, and I will not argue that point with him for the fear of a "permaban" LOL In car part related news: My intake is currently in Botany getting processed for the last leg of its shipping journey to my door   
    • Had a go at the stuck crush tube this afternoon. Tried things like grips and a chain wrench first but wouldn't just twist straight off. So got to work with a drill. Started small and kept a depth stop on to make sure I didn't drill into the bolt. Made a line of drill holes all the way up and enlarged them. Then a combination of chisel and Dremel to split it all the way up. Levered the split to get oil in there and eventually it gave a bit while levering. Worked it back and forth with loads more oil till it was spinning freely, then with grips I could work it downwards and off. And no significant damage to the bolt (not by me anyway - just the 27 years of rust)
    • Well, I'm tired. I'm tired because about 4PM yesterday, before today's appointment someone immediately bought my bumper. They couldn't get it any other day as they're on the way back to NSW. So I had to do that big GTR conversion I had been planning. Unfortunately, the information on SAU about what you need and how this is done is incomplete. So what should be a simple bolt on affair, yeah, it's not. Did you know if you use all GTR items the bonnet won't close? This little manuever sent me into about 1am the night before trying to dodge a way to get it closed. I will have to revisit this in the next few days  - or maybe not, I may let a body shop figure it out. It all needs to come up and my motivation to pull the bumper off is low. It also seems to hit things in the bay where the GTT bonnet didn't. Yes I used 100% new OEM GTR items. Today, I had the joy of driving to the dyno looking like this: Given I had roughed in the fuel and given sensible but pretty conservative timing, I didn't really bet on having the car drive out any real difference than when it drove in. Sadly due to a miscommunication and laptop fun and games (and almost bricking the dongle, prayers and firmware updates indeed), I ended up using HP Tuner credits to licence the car that was already licenced. So in the end my laptop was used. It turns out my butt dyno is still well calibrated after all this time. The 325kw was on 74% Ethanol, the 313kw line was on 98. The other line is the 'before' line which was 281kw. While the numbers are pretty low, they're pretty in line with what you'd expect. Even if US dynos bump the whole result up about 50KW, gaining 10-15% is similar gains.  The curve of the cam is pretty much spot on with what was discussed as well. All this said, it still feels bad to not see the number you secretly want to see. Even if the car drove great beforehand, and I knew pretty confidently the car would drive out much the same way it drove in due to the nature of a wellish dialled in LS1 not gaining much if anything at all from being tuned from where it was. As expected, the car isn't particularly sensitive to running it at anywhere between 12.0 and 13.0 - And the initial timing at 20deg and 12.0 made 308KW. So 3 degrees of timing, and leaning it out to 12.7 for 5kw, anything above stopped giving any benefit until E85 (which has an additional 2 deg as before). Car itself behaved entirely fine. I found out that 100C = 1.15V! IAT at about 7pm was 19C. I might mess with the bonnet mounting.. but given the REO NEEDS TO BE CHOPPED TO FIT A GTR BAR this is possibly something I may leave gathering (more) dust until it returns to paint jail.
×
×
  • Create New...