Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah terry they have. And they mainly do nrma work. So thats probably the nrma assessment centre they told you to go too. Their based on the central coast and they just follow hail storms and open up factory units to do all the insurance work then once its all done they move on somewhere else. Like a travelling circus lol

Yes that's what they do! Lol. The Lawson crowd come from Wollongong whilst yes, the Emu Plains fellahs come from Central Coast.

I wonder what percentage of people upon receiving their cars back, only look at the paintwork and smoothness of the panels - but not the mouldings??!

Got a call from my repairer today, at $5000 in repairs; it appears that the $4000 Mazda may have sung it's last hurrah.

Will wait until Shannon's get in touch and see what their view on retention/re-registration of the wreck is. It is only a write-off on monetary value; not on structural damage.

I'm hopeful that they would pay out, and allow us to retain the wreck (with/without a fee) and not make the car a statutory write off, which means I don't have to find a new car for the missus immediately.
Not fussed if it can no longer have comprehensive insurance.

I realise this; it would be a shame for a perfectly safe, driveable car to be scrapped because the roof has a couple of dents.

Just because they don't want to repair it doesn't make the car a statutory write off

I guess we'll see when the Shannon's assessor looks at it tomorrow.

Really don't want to have to buy a new car next week.

Edit; http://www.rms.nsw.gov.au/documents/roads/registration/get-nsw-registration/written-off-vehicles-assessment-guide.pdf

Relevant info; Page 30.

post-61153-0-28641400-1427343336_thumb.png


Hail damaged vehicles are treated differently to accident damaged vehicle.

That is intersting well hopefully it all works out well with shannons. And yeah car shoppings not fun. Especially when its out of necessary

Yeah, I guess we'll see tomorrow, but all my dealings with them thus far have been pretty hassle free and accommodating.

We're going to upgrade, but I'd rather do it in my own timeframe.

The car is worth peanuts as a trade really, so it just pushes the process forward.

What car you looking to update for dale? Let me know if theres anythin in particular your after and ill see if i have anything in stock

Sounds like we might be better off having a proper chat once we know which way we're going Adrian.

I know my Missus likes the XT Forester around 2007ish, and I might be able to get her in a Mazda 3, but I'm not sure what we'll be looking to spend ATM.

Sounds like we might be better off having a proper chat once we know which way we're going Adrian.

I know my Missus likes the XT Forester around 2007ish, and I might be able to get her in a Mazda 3, but I'm not sure what we'll be looking to spend ATM.

yeah mate of course but if you do decide to go down that path i would be more then happy to try to help out mate :)

Ok, met the assessor today; the car is confirmed as a total loss.

Insured value is $3860, repairs were a minimum of $5000.

Interesting information;

​The car will not be de-registered, and we'll be getting a buy back figure from Shannon's fairly shortly.
If it is less than $500; I'll buy it back and keep driving it, while we look for something to replace it with.
Once our claim is settled; the car will no longer qualify for Full Comp insurance with Shannon's

Cars over 15 years old DO NOT go on the WOVR.
Cars over 15 years old are not declared as Hail Damaged to RMS

They basically couldn't care less about cars over 15 years old; which is good news as our favourite cars get on in age.

If it was younger than 15 years, it would be on the WOVR, and listed as a hail damaged vehicle.
It would be de-registered.
As far as I can ascertain; it would not qualify to be re-registered.

Ok, met the assessor today; the car is confirmed as a total loss.

Insured value is $3860, repairs were a minimum of $5000.

Interesting information;

​The car will not be de-registered, and we'll be getting a buy back figure from Shannon's fairly shortly.

If it is less than $500; I'll buy it back and keep driving it, while we look for something to replace it with.

Once our claim is settled; the car will no longer qualify for Full Comp insurance with Shannon's

Cars over 15 years old DO NOT go on the WOVR.

Cars over 15 years old are not declared as Hail Damaged to RMS

They basically couldn't care less about cars over 15 years old; which is good news as our favourite cars get on in age.

If it was younger than 15 years, it would be on the WOVR, and listed as a hail damaged vehicle.

It would be de-registered.

As far as I can ascertain; it would not qualify to be re-registered.

some good info there. That means once mine gets repaired it wont be listed as hail damage due to mine being a 95? Hmmm very interesting

Edit: heard from the second panel beater and final quote came to around 5100. My agreed value of the car is 11k so by those figures i should be in the clear :)

Edited by cav33r



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...