Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hahaa...

The Mazda 2 with $9K damage will have it's roof replaced.

Is this car worth keeping afterwards?

I suppose it depends on how it's performed but have you heard of pros and cons?

Terry, when Shell's car got hit a few years ago; LMSR replaced the entire RHS of the car.

Both doors, B pillar, cant rail, sill panel, rear quarter/C pillar new rhsr strut, hub and rim.

There was nothing on the entire side of the car.

Every panel Bill removed, the straighter the shell became. Set up on their table the shell was perfect.

Rebuilt, they reckoned that it was better than it was brand new.

12 months later; I'd defy anyone to pick the repairs.

More than 6 years down the track we haven't had a single issue with the repairs or even with the way the car wheel aligns.

Done right; it will be perfect.

  • Like 1

"Done right" being the key words.....

There's the expectation that you would only be utilising a trusted repairer for a job like this.

I'd no more trust a dodgy panel repairer, than I would a dodgy mechanic with any of my cars.

Over the years I've cultivated a healthy relationship with my repairer, and that's why I had no hesitation with them undertaking such an extensive repair.

Shell was very doubtful that they could repair it completely, so he invited Shell & I down to see the car when it was completely stripped of the damaged structure.

He then hung all the structural members on the shell in front of her to demonstrate how straight the body was.

Picked up Volvo XC60 this arvo.

Undamaged paint: tick

All dents gone: tick

New tailgate light lens: tick

Aluminium mouldings: tick

Rubber momouldings: I rejected a front roof moulding. It has two dents and the edge is lifting. Rephotographed and reported to the insurance company.

Other: Offside blinker didn't work and offside rear parking light didn't work. It was just a detached loom.

At least the most critical parts have been done well; the rest, while a bit disappointing, isn't the end of the world.

Hope the get the finer details sorted quickly Tez.

When does the Mazda go in?




  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So either way it is gearbox out and look what is wrong?  I know about the input shaft bearing. Even before swap/new clutch the it sounded exactly like this: So is that inout shaft bearing or the other was installed backwards?  And can some please tell me the part number for that input shaft bearing? The gearbox is small box from R34 N/A and number is FS5W71C. Thank you  
    • I am yet to see anyone ever regret a quaife or helical. ...other than drifting/skidpan duties. I kind of want to upgrade my factory helical with a Quaife (but really it's not ultimately that different, and is a MASSIVE UNDERTAKING), that's how good the hype is about them, that I want to try them 'just to see'  
    • D2 and Ksport are essentially the same thing and basically just generic Taiwanese manufacture. Better than ChinaBay crap, but... not top shelf. Öhlins have got to be some of the best dampers around, so likely to be a good option. It's going to get to the point though where I suggest you buy from Oz. We have at least 2x excellent options here. If I were you though, I'd be talking to KW about doing something for the R33. There's bugger all difference between that and the 32. In GTR land, anyway.
    • KW only offers a set for the R32 GTR. Popular options are D2 racing, Ksport or Öhlins. I have a D2 Racing coilover set, though I don't know for sure which one.
    • Well, the good news is you have more than one very good option for new coilovers in and around your country. Worth the drive over to KW to talk about GTR stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...