Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys Im running a Rb25 with op6 highflow set on 20psi tuned by insight motorsport

The car picks up knock readings of 80+ on my pfc this is my second engine and i don't quite want to do an engine swap any time soon and before it gets asked i did get this motor retuned after the engine swap could it be bad fuel? or anything else?

I now run half a bottle of octane booster per tank to keep it from knocking at the moment?

I havent checked cam timing ill pop the cover off today and see if it has jumped any teeth.

thanks any help is appreciated

Michael

The Power FC's (especially the older ones) tend to pick up 'false' knock.

As an example I had an old power FC on my car when I had the gt2835KAI (think it wasa v2.20) which I replaced with a brand new one. Same tune on both, with the old one I used to see 20+ knock on startup and randomly get spikes of knock at really random times. With the new one, only ever got about 6 knock on startup and never really had any knock issues

Im not suggesting that its nothing to worry about and your Power FC is lying to you, but its worth mentioning

The tuner needs to put a standalone knock sensor on it and have a proper listen for knock. Log the point where it knocks if you can or at least remember where it is then get the tuner to go for a drive with you and listen for actual knock. There may be no problem at all, or it may need a retune

This is the only way to prove it for sure

  • Like 1

What Cal said is perfect, if you follow that and you are still getting knock but no signs of it through the tune then there is the chance that it could be a false reading. Having said that you might want to lower your tune to a safer limit while you work out what the issue is as you could be damaging your motor.

  • Like 1

New nissan knock sensors are ridiculously expensive. Is there any new alternative that doesn't require too much dicking around? Most knock kits use the Bosch or GM donut sensors, could these be incorporated into the ECU?

The Power FC's (especially the older ones) tend to pick up 'false' knock.

As an example I had an old power FC on my car when I had the gt2835KAI (think it wasa v2.20) which I replaced with a brand new one. Same tune on both, with the old one I used to see 20+ knock on startup and randomly get spikes of knock at really random times. With the new one, only ever got about 6 knock on startup and never really had any knock issues

Im not suggesting that its nothing to worry about and your Power FC is lying to you, but its worth mentioning

The tuner needs to put a standalone knock sensor on it and have a proper listen for knock. Log the point where it knocks if you can or at least remember where it is then get the tuner to go for a drive with you and listen for actual knock. There may be no problem at all, or it may need a retune

This is the only way to prove it for sure

Its pretty random I have had high knock levels pop up just putting around 2000-4500 barely hitting boost then i get them at WOT but with octane booster i see nothing over 30. makes me think there is carbon buildup in the cylinder ;)

which RPM are you picking up this knock at?

its pretty random but if i had to pick it would be up top 6000+ WOT

New nissan knock sensors are ridiculously expensive. Is there any new alternative that doesn't require too much dicking around? Most knock kits use the Bosch or GM donut sensors, could these be incorporated into the ECU?

im interested to know i would love to update them

could just be mechanical noise you're picking up, usually from my personal experience most knock occurs where peak torque is reached, unless timing up top is pretty strong and there could be a chance it's knocking there too.

  • Like 1

I've never seen an Rb jump a cam belt.

Any odd cam timing I've come across can always be traced back to a poor/incorrect belt install.

You've got a hand commander, pull a few degrees timing out of it and note the results.

Go Setting, Ign/Inj and either add fuel or pull timing. (I'd pull timing)

As soon as you turn the engine off those temporary changes are gone and she's back exactly where it was. A very conventient function for test/tune.

A lot easier than farting about with octane booster, plus you can give some accurate feedback to your tuner.

Paul's big PFc story is a mine of useful information, have a read of the hand commander section.

How's the tuner going to do a tight tune with some unknown ratio of octane booster still in your tank.

could just be mechanical noise you're picking up, usually from my personal experience most knock occurs where peak torque is reached, unless timing up top is pretty strong and there could be a chance it's knocking there too.

I would be checking AFRs too but johnnilcte pretty much summed it up.

I now run half a bottle of octane booster per tank to keep it from knocking at the moment?
Is that a statement or a question?
If you are running octane booster and the knock goes away, then you can confirm its real knock. If you want to play around with the tune, then follow Jiffo's advice. If you dont want play around, then just take it back to the tuner to fix.
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This car has run before on this z32 ecu can get the part number for you, I have tried with no AFM it didn’t change anything, I compression tested today 140-150 across all 6 cylinders, also set fuel pressure to 43psi. The only weird thing was cylinder 1 plug was black and fouled other 5 cylinders were just wet with fuel. Spun cas by hand and confirmed injectors are clicking 
    • Since you came here to ask for help, have you thought about answering our questions, that might help us lead you to why it was skipping, or have you given up on getting advice?
    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
×
×
  • Create New...