Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

A few months ago I asked for help to learn to tune. I was given some links to help me learn. I understand the basics of what tuning is now. But I want understand how to tune. What values do you look for and how do you know your car is with in safe limits. Also how do you know what your stock settings are?

I am going to buy a cheap RB 20 and learn how to build it up and tune. I have access to a shop and tools where I can work on things.

Can someone help me or point me in the right direction so I'll know what I am doing?

Yes I have researched , but can't find any info about how to tune maps, what values to look for, etc.

I am having my car tuned professionally so this is not for tuning my main car. It's for learning.

Edited by yoshiii335
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/455349-how-to-tune-what-to-look-for/
Share on other sites

Like Ben said there are entire forums dedicated for tuning. Plus it's like a job/career, its not an easy task and takes time to master, hence people paying top dollars for professionals to tune their car for them. Otherwise everyone would do it.

You'll have to spend a considerable amount of time researching on what you are doing, what to look for and then you'll have to test it out on a car and having access to a dyno or road tuning . There are a considerable amount of variables involved.

goto: www.learntotune.com purchase their basics and road tuning course plus watch through all the online tuning videos. You will have a pretty good idea of how things works before hands on experiences.

  • Like 1

It is also easier to learn when you have an original base map that is setup right and you make small changes and tweaks etc to get your self comfortable with what setting does what and how the engine behaves.

Just keep in mind any real 'power' tuning needs access to knock ears and a dyno.

It is also easier to learn when you have an original base map that is setup right and you make small changes and tweaks etc to get your self comfortable with what setting does what and how the engine behaves.

Just keep in mind any real 'power' tuning needs access to knock ears and a dyno.

Thank you,

Do you know where I would usually get base maps for? Or does it come with the aftermarket computer for a particular car?

Come with aftermarket ecu.

That said, you are definitely trying to do to much at once.
Engine swap/engine rebuild and tuning with 0 prior experience and what sounds like not much knowledge.

I would be instead of asking these questions, learn taking out an engine on a dummy car, take it apart, put it back together, put it back in the car and see if it works.
Otherwise you risk screwing up a potential project because of a simple mistake, unless you have a friend that knows what there doing that can guide you through the process.

  • Like 1

i found that the more you search and the more you read online puts you backwards, the only way to learn how to tune is to open the laptop and tune!

you dont find how to tune from a book, tuning will find you when you let it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...