Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am a grandpa driver, economist record holder for GT-8's with the 'Hypermiling Technique' as was previously shown on Mythbusters!!!

A Full Tank can drive 1,159kms running on 6.9L/100kms Consumption...

Yeah good try Rat (1984 Chinese Animal).
That's why my last driving crime on the road was on 1st Dec 2010!!!
What's yours??? Lol

Just because you don't get caught doesn't mean that your not a d*ckhead. Props for the insult too man, calling me by my Chinese animal... ouch

Jimmy, ever since you joined SAU back in January 2015, I always had this feeling you were a Chinese Rat... I just didn't have the heart to say anything... I'm glad I'm not the only one who feels this way.*

*Sorry Paul, but your comment towards Jimmy has got to be the most 'odd' insult I've read in years on the interwebs... +1 for ingenuity though.... Chinese Rat, lol...

With all do respect Paul, Jimmy is absolutely right - leave the races for track days, and not on the streets... Unless you enjoy traffic light wars 0-60 km/h....

Edited by Sikahalv

My VIN Placard states: RE0R04A for the trans.

Axle: RC36

Plant: M

Enough of the w**kfest and comparing how big everyone's d**k is. Fact of the matter is that these cars are slow. They take a fair bit of work to get any decent power out of. The DE has a brittle bottom end. The 37VHR actually has some sexy as f**k pistons and rods in there. This not the place to talk about street racing and carrying on like idiots - boost cruising is that way.

Listen to what the guys who have been there and done that say. Learn from them. Quit the B**tching and moaning and grow up. When Andrew gets back from holidays, he'll probably remove 3/4 of the crap in here.

  • Like 2

Ok some say I need to reset the TCU including the workshop manual after a trans flush on a GT-8.

But one says why.

I also ask why if my gear ratios are still the same & not corrupt?!

Ok some say I need to reset the TCU including the workshop manual after a trans flush on a GT-8.

But one says why.

I also ask why if my gear ratios are still the same & not corrupt?!

Not sure what needs to be 'reset'. Other CVT equipped Nissan vehicles have a 'fluid condition' counter stored in the TCU which determines when fluid should be changed based on how the vehicle is driven rather than just km alone. This figure is supposed to be reset when fluid is changed, so perhaps the GT-8 has something similar.

No idea how gear ratios could 'become corrupt', these are hard coded and not 'learned', and they only apply when you are in manual mode anyway.

Not sure what needs to be 'reset'. Other CVT equipped Nissan vehicles have a 'fluid condition' counter stored in the TCU which determines when fluid should be changed based on how the vehicle is driven rather than just km alone. This figure is supposed to be reset when fluid is changed, so perhaps the GT-8 has something similar.

This. Else is sets up contingencies for old fluid which causes problems.

  • 2 weeks later...

When the full flush is done how can it setup contingencies when the gear changes are hard coded as one says?

I see no point getting the TCU Reset as it can't be done by anyone anyway, to what I have been reading?!

I highly doubt there are any 'contingencies' with old fluid. I just know some other CVT equipped vehicles have a fluid life counter in the TCU and it just flags when a fluid change is due. The idea is it can flag fluid change intervals with more accuracy than just KM, as 60,000 highway km is much nicer on transmission fluid than 60,000 city km.

This counter may not even exist in the V35 CVT TCU?

  • Like 1

I haven't had a CVT here to put on the consult3, but if there are such maintenance options, that would be the only way to reset it I imagine. Would be interesting to see the TCU diagnostics for these...

I haven't had a CVT here to put on the consult3, but if there are such maintenance options, that would be the only way to reset it I imagine. Would be interesting to see the TCU diagnostics for these...

Do you work at a Transmission place in Melbourne Scott?

Like if I brought my CVT PV35 over to you, you could connect it up to your Consult3 Software to check my TCU of the CVT?

Check this Infiniti G35 Coupe (633rwhp) beat a stock Nissan GTR R35 in a rolling start drag!!! ;)

Just bear in mind with the additional trans cooler you were talking about that this trans (and more importantly the oil) was designed to operate at 80degrees or so. The fluid is far more likely to allow slip once it goes outside a certain temp range which could damage the toroids among other things. I have seen the testing documentation on this from when they designed the extroid cvt's and Nissan was very specific on pointing this out in the doc!

Not sure if they have a thermostat built in... (they probably do) so yeah an additional cooler will help you alot at trackdays but if there is no thermostat and the temp is not properly regulated it could cause as much damage as not having one!

B&M do a cheap trans coolers and Derale to good 80deg thermostats.

And yeah your nuts if you are even entertaining the thought of turbcharging this car with this transmission!

  • Like 1

Not sure if they have a thermostat built in... (they probably do)

the cooler lines are the path the fluid takes on its way back to the pan. you can't restrict or block this flow or you will cause a lot of problems. They would have to include some sort of internal cooler 'bypass' to control temperature.. they might have something like this if fluid temperature is very critical, but I have never seen such a thing in a standard transmissions before.

  • Like 1

the cooler lines are the path the fluid takes on its way back to the pan. you can't restrict or block this flow or you will cause a lot of problems. They would have to include some sort of internal cooler 'bypass' to control temperature.. they might have something like this if fluid temperature is very critical, but I have never seen such a thing in a standard transmissions before.

Not sure what your getting at. If you look at where the lines are routed they come right out the front of the car past the radiator and behind the bumper into some bulbus thing which is probably either a filter or a thermostat or something... I forget and I cant look into it further as I sold my car recently.

The B&M cooler has its own inbuilt bypasses to allow oil to bypass when its cold I have no idea how it works but thats what they claim.

I fitted the B&M cooler and derale thermostat to my own E55 AMG and it works perfectly (bypassed stock trans cooler inbuilt to radiator which is a near identical setup to the GT8)

There will be a minor difference in flow (due to the cooler itself and lines) but IMHO certainly not enough to make any difference whatsoever to this CVT trans if you actually look at how a Derale H thermostat works you will understand this. The operating temp is still the most critical part of the gt8 oiling system hence why there is multiple accounts of this car spitting the dummy when you take them on track... you can watch the best motoring video to see the most glaring account of this.

Edited by austingtir
  • Like 1

Just bear in mind with the additional trans cooler you were talking about that this trans (and more importantly the oil) was designed to operate at 80degrees or so. The fluid is far more likely to allow slip once it goes outside a certain temp range which could damage the toroids among other things. I have seen the testing documentation on this from when they designed the extroid cvt's and Nissan was very specific on pointing this out in the doc!

Not sure if they have a thermostat built in... (they probably do) so yeah an additional cooler will help you alot at trackdays but if there is no thermostat and the temp is not properly regulated it could cause as much damage as not having one!

B&M do a cheap trans coolers and Derale to good 80deg thermostats.

And yeah your nuts if you are even entertaining the thought of turbcharging this car with this transmission!

Lol, I was never super or Turbo Charging mine!!!

Is the Derale H you're talking about the bulbus thing that is connected at the front?

Are you saying that the B&M kit won't do much cooling when it goes to the track?

If it won't, do you know which company of brand could supply me a gauge with a sensor that would not stuff up anything when installed & let me read its temperature live, to save myself the hassle by overheating it???

I have left the banter in here as it has been generally acceptable, if not borderline. But consider this as a first and final warning, any further personal slander/affray (especially bringing race into it) and I will start editing heavily and handing out bans.

Also Paul, I have removed your car list from your profile - it makes every post you make ridiculously large when viewing the forums.

  • Like 1

There is definitely a turbocharged CVT getting about locally, and it's still running fine afaik. The box isn't weak, just misunderstood.

Do you work at a Transmission place in Melbourne Scott?
Like if I brought my CVT PV35 over to you, you could connect it up to your Consult3 Software to check my TCU of the CVT?

I thought you had the RE4 for a minute, but yes, if you can drop in with it I could check out the diagnostics Nissan use to service the CVT. I don't specialise in transmissions, but I have shift kitted many Nissan auto boxes.
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
×
×
  • Create New...