Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

$1100 is about right for a full head service.

Yeah, that's why I wasn't complaining

It seems like a fair price for the job involved :yes:

I'd rather pay the amount, have it done once and have it done right :banana:

Seems a bit exxy to me - we just had our head & block done - pretty much what you listed except we supplied the valve stem seals (they came with the OEM engine gasket kit), and the exhaust studs had recently been replaced. Other work done included dipping the block, reboring & honing, decking, & boring the oil returns larger. Price included ACL series race main & big end bearings & all welsh plugs for head & block. Grand total (including parts) was $700. All work was done by a long-time & well respected one-man machine shop. head was returned completely assembled including welsh plugs, and block was returned bare.

Hmm, that's weird but I guess everywhere is going to have a different labour rate :yes:

I spoke to a couple of people over here (namely mechanics) and they seemed to think this was a fair price.

Are you in WA? :turned:

Be careful with getting engines cleaned, you can end up with more problems as clearances may increase eg. if the lifters are worn and their bore, cleaning them could potentially lead to noisy lifters as they start bleeding down.

Edited by AngryRB

SA

I'm in WA, so I can't even get a quote from this guy :angry:

Be careful with getting engines cleaned, you can end up with more problems as clearances may increase eg. if the lifters are worn and their bore, cleaning them could potentially lead to noisy lifters as they start bleeding down.

See, this sort of stuff I don't know as I don't specialise in head work, but this sort of stuff makes me nervous! :/

I just like stuff to be done all good with no issues :glare:

  • 2 weeks later...

Great thread so far, Josh, looking forward to seeing more :yes:

Thanks Neville! Good to see another happy reader :D

Yeah, shouldn't be too much longer till the Head gets it's work done and then my car will be driveable again! :banana:

I noticed you are in Perth? Ever heard of "Nissan or Nothing Car Club"? :thumbsup:

I came to a track day not too long ago to watch a few NoN cars at the RAC track.

Good fun but I'm yet to come on a cruise haha. My car has only just been tuned so now I can actually drive it ?

I came to a track day not too long ago to watch a few NoN cars at the RAC track.

Good fun but I'm yet to come on a cruise haha. My car has only just been tuned so now I can actually drive it

Oh.. Neville W right?

Yeah I remember man :yes:

I run the club :nyaanyaa:

Oh awesome, should be holding a cruise soon so will be good to see how your car goes after the tune :D

Hey guys!

Not much on the update front unfortunately!

Hopefully come July 12th I can start updating again as I find out about my job :turned:

If I get the good news, I am going to get the Head finished and buy the Head Studs and Head Gasket

Then videos will ensue of the (Pardon the pun) Head Job :rofl2:

I am also really contemplating throwing in some Tomei PonCams! Hmmm :dry:

  • 1 month later...

Guess who's back!? I am! You guy's thought you could get rid of me, didn't you?

It's not that easy! All is good with my job, so the car journey continues! I picked up my head about 30 minutes ago from HeadTorque:

post-104024-0-13059900-1435980291_thumb.jpg

post-104024-0-97327000-1435980298_thumb.jpg

post-104024-0-65072400-1435980305_thumb.jpg

post-104024-0-51345500-1435980308_thumb.jpg

post-104024-0-63917800-1435980311_thumb.jpg

Gerry @ HeadTorque did an amazing job! Would highly recommend him to any one in WA needing head work!

Really nice, up front and honest guy, helped me from start to finish and always kept me in the loop and answered my question, price was good too!

So far I have the dead-line set for 1\8\15 :yes:

Next week I will be picking up some ARP Head Studs so stay tuned for that :D

Man it feels good to get the ball rolling with this again :banana:

Until next week guys and girls :cheers:

  • Like 2

So.. it's that time again, update time!

Just picked up my ARP Head Stud's from Precision International in Malaga

post-104024-0-59119800-1436519432_thumb.jpg

Simple photo, but you get the idea :yes:

Tune in next week for the pickup of my Head Gasket,

Until then people! :thumbsup:

Sounds great mate, should have some fun with it pretty soon, how much power you expecting?

Yeah man, I can't wait to just drive the thing! My Pulsar is a good daily but it doesn't beat the feeling of boost :no:

The whole reason this is happening is because of low-compression, but I am replacing all the parts with good quality stuff because - Do it once, do it right :thumbsup:

In saying that though, I have juts received my tax return, So I am going to be buying (If 6Boost get back to me :dry:) a 6Boost Low-Mount Twin-Scroll Manifold

I was going to run a Low-Mount, Twin-Scroll Precision Turbo on it, however apparently they have issues with the VBand not clamping correctly, causing a slight exhaust leak etc

So I think I might just be boring and run a Low-Mount, Twin-Scroll Garrett GTX3076R w .64 Rear Housing

My goal is only 400rwhp, I'll keep that power figure whilst I build my actual engine :rolleyes:

Need injectors too, I am looking @ some 740cc Deatschwerks - http://www.deatschwerks.com/products/fuel-injectors/sport-compact/nissan/skyline/rb25det/1993-98-rb25det/01j-00-0740-6-detail

Oh, and an FPR (Fuel Pressure Regulator)

Ah ok, ive been down that twin scroll path with a GT3076, wouldn't do it again but maybe it will work better for you as there's a few ways to do it..

Ask Scotty about a set of Xspurts, they are awesome injectors and ridiculously cheap, you can use the stock reg with deatchworks cant you or are you planning on an aftermarket rail?

Edited by AngryRB

Ah ok, ive been down that twin scroll path with a GT3076, wouldn't do it again but maybe it will work better for you as there's a few ways to do it..

Ask Scotty about a set of Xspurts, they are awesome injectors and ridiculously cheap, you can use the stock reg with deatchworks cant you or are you planning on an aftermarket rail?

Oh really? Why wouldn't you do it again?

I'll look into that! I do have my heart set on Deatschwerks though :P

I haven't actually looked that far yet haha, gotta get my car running first :whistling:

I think I'll research the pro's and con's of both when it comes to it :D

Hey guys, It's my 100th post! :worship:

Annnnnnnnnnnnnd.... It's UPDATE TIME again! :banana:

Picked up my Permaseal MLSR Head Gasket today

post-104024-0-82457400-1436960386_thumb.jpg

It's 1.3mm thick, I wanted 1.2mm (as that's stock Nissan thickness), however Permaseal only started at 1.3mm. Spoke with HeadTorque and they advised it would be ok to run 1.3mm :thumbsup:

One of the main reasons I went with Permseal, aside from quality, is that it comes with an additional Stopper Layer which is good for high boost cars.

Given my power-goal, that was a no brainer :yes:

Next week I will be ordering a Genuine Nissan Water Pump from Kudos Motorsports - http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/genuine-nissan-pitwork-water-pump-nissan-skyline-r33-gtr-gts25t-r34-gtr-rb25det-rb26dett-p-22.html

So that will be the next update,

Until then guys! :action-smiley-069:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
    • I haven’t yet cut the chassis, maybe I switch to a reverse flow. I’ve got the Intercooler mounted as I already had it but not cut yet. Might have to speak to an engineer 
    • Yes that’s another issue, I always have a front mount, plus will be turbo plus intake will big hasstle. I’ve been told if it looks stock they’re fine with it by a couple others who have done it ahahaha.    I know @Kinkstaah said the stock gtt airbox is limiting but I might just have to do that to avoid a defect so it atleast looks legit. Or an enclosed pod so it’s hidden away and feed air from the snorkel and below Intercooler holes like kinstaah mentioned. Hmm what to do 
×
×
  • Create New...