Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Can you remove the lower timing belt cover without removing the front pulley??

I've taken out the bolts x 4 with the rubber grommets but can't seem to be able to remove the cover. Its loose and wants to come but moves about 5mm then goes no further.

The manual isn't much help, it just says to remove it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/456165-lower-timing-belt-cover/
Share on other sites

So just to clarify........the bolts you are talking about are behind the front pulley and balancer?

I already took out the ones holding the cover up each side and the one underneath.

If I have to get the front pulley off to get it out thats fine, will tackle that as another job.

Just trying to replace the water pump. Get the lower cover off and I'm home and hosed.

Also having a hell of a time trying to get the coolant drain for the block out, its as tight as, not enough room to do it and the bloody head of the bolt is too small 14mm [plus ist been butchered before a bit]. Might have to tear the split dump off - and that seems excessive for one bung. Looked at taking the water line off the turbo but it is also too hard and a bit higher in the block. Reckon I'll get a bit of hex bar turned up and replace the bolt/bung with a longer 'bolt head' this way at least I'd get a good swing at it next time..

BTW is anyone running with waterless coolant, thinking of trying out. Not so much for the better cooling but I like the non corrosive idea.

Duh....I just thought of the tutorials and there is a v.good one there. One day I'll actually 'get my sh1t together.................

Now another question, how does the steel pipe/spigot mounted in the alloy housing above the water pump come out? and can I replace it? Its the one that the radiator hose pushes over for the motor. Is it just a press fit? And are they an item you can purchase?

And no reply on my waterless coolant question, anyone using it?

Are we talking stock manifold?

There is nothing listed in fast for just the bit of pipe. I know it is seperate on the Greddy/Freddy manifolds. If you have the money the easiest thing would be to take it to an engineering shop and see if they can machine or remove the old one out and make a new one up. I'm not sure if its press fit or not, as I suspect it always comes installed in the manifold if it is press fit etc

yeah its the one above the thermostat, its cast with the standard inlet manifold. I'd like to replace the steel part, does anyone have a 'fix' for this?

And is the steel fitting hard to get out? I tried spinning it with multigrips but it didn't move. I'd say that if I used the oxy set and warmed the alloy around it I may have a better chance but not much use if I can't replace it with something better.

Note that I don't have the manifold out, was looking to see if its doable without removal........but probably asking too much.

No it's still structurally sound, but has surface rust. Motor is untouched [except for Tomei cams] with 90k on it. Not looking to rebuild until i need to. Plus I have an RB30 and a spare reco'd RB25 head converted for internal oil to the vct so will probably rebuild it/set it up for +400rwkw and see how I go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Kapr Haha yeah thats the one. I missed that you had a built up engine, I wouldn't want to run it on there either then. It was good in my situation just to replace the original turbo on a stock engine. @MBS206Yep definitely not a replacement for anything name brand
    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
×
×
  • Create New...